Tuesday, January 08, 2008

Stiriofobija WI 5+, 90 Degrees, 110m (45m Crux)

Today went back out with Martin to Climb Stiriofobija. Super 45 minute approach into Triglav National Park - not like RMNP as we saw nobody else today. The climbing was super, up the left hand side as the right side is very brittle, as it is just spay that has frozen much like drool.
Stiriofobila was a great climb, there is some discussion as to whether this was the 2nd or 3rd ascent this season. The first by Pavle Kozjek - one of Slovenia's most famous alpinists, and then a questioned ascent by two very well known and very sponsored climbers. If they did not do it then it is weird, as they are super strong, climbing M10 easily, so the climb should be physically easy for them. Anyway, I had a lot of fun on it, regardless if my lead was the 2nd or 3rd of the season. I tell you this, climbing without instructions is super, so much more work cleaning brittle ice. I would also like to give a shout out to the new BD Ice Screws, the new tooth configuration is spectacular, I managed to place a screw above my head today in to the last remaining solid ice before finishing the crux, it went in so easily. Thanks Bill B. @ BD for sending it!!