Thursday, July 31, 2008

Nanga Parbat Rupal Face: Departure and Thanks

Billy, Dave and I start the long trip to Islamabad today.
Trips to the Rupal Face don't happen without alot of support from many people. The past few weeks have been so great for me; I really have felt the proverbial love from Chris, Kim and Gary at Scarpa, Andy and Jordan at Marmot, Jesse and Tommy at CAMP USA, Graham at CIlo Gear, and from great friends like Brian at Ames Adventure Outfitters, Scott at KNSReps for all the help with Jetboil stoves and Matt at Four Winds Himalayan Guiding. Everybody has gone above and beyond to help me out with last minute gear requests and logistics.
I must say that I would not have been able to train and focus as much on this trip for the past year without the support of Elizabeth and Tom who have been my Boulder base camp. Ingemar must be thanked as well as this trip would not happen without his financial support.

Thanks again everybody,
Wish us luck and check back for updates! 

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Rupal Face Gear List

Many people are asking me what are we taking for gear, so here is everything I am packing. I am sure there is more gear than listed, but this is the meat of it.
Tent: Marmot Alpinist
Bivy Sac: Marmot Alpinist Bivy
Sleeping Bag: Marmot Helium EQ
Thermarest Inflatable and foam Z Rest
1 Pair Scarpa Phantom 8000
1 Pair Scarpa Quest
1 Pair Scarpa Vision - for bouldering in base camp
Marmot Matterhorn 42
Cilo Gear 45L Dyneema Worksack
Personal Hardware:
1 Pair Camp Vector Nanotech Crampon
1 Pair Camp Awax Leashless Ice Axes
1 Camp Quartz CR Harness
1 Camp Stratech Helmet
1 Camp Pulse Helmet
Group Hardware:
1 Full Set Cams
1 Full Set Camp Carvex Hexes
1 Full Set Camp Tri Cams
1 Full Set Camp Radion Ice Screws
1 Full Set Camp Stoppers
50 Camp Nano 23 Biners
1 Sull set pins
1 Camp Alu Fix Shovel
2 Jet Boils Stoves: 1 1.5L Pot, 1 1L pot
Personal Clothes:
1 Marmot Ama Dablam Down Jacket
1 Marmot Guides Down Vest
1 Marmot Exum Jacket
1 Marmot Superhoer Jacket
1 Marmot Power Strech Shirt
1 Marmot Scree Pant
1 Marmot Dryclimb Stretch Pant
Gloves: :4 pairs
Socks: 4 pair

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Nanga Parbat: Rakiot Face - The Tragic death of Karl Unterkircher

Below is a quote from about the situation on Nanga Parbat's Rakiot Face right now. Another website,, is reporting that Nones and Kerhrer, who have now requested a helicopter rescue at 6600m, have two days of food and fuel and the the weather forecast for tomorrow is not a great one. Let's all hope for a break in the weather, a successful rescue, either from Mondinelli in base camp or again the astounding Pakistani helicopter pilots. I write this very saddened by the tragic news of another friend's, Karl Unterkircher, death.

We leave for the Rupal Face next week, for sure a little weighed down by Karl's death.
I am busy sorting out more gear, this time from CAMP USA (, and finishing last minute arrangements for my Pumori clients for October.

wo Italian alpinists on Nanga Parbat, Walter Nones and Simon Kerhrer, requested a helicopter rescue after their attempt to descend again came to a standstill. Nones and Kerher are the surviving teammates of Karl Unterkircher, who was lost in a crevasse six days ago on the mountain (read the July 16, 2008 Newswire). This morning, they left their bivouac at around 7000m, but soon faced bad weather and poor visibility. From another bivouac at around 6600m, they called rescue coordinators in base camp. "We don't see anything. It is to dangerous to continue," Nones and Kerher said. "We used our skis on some parts of the descent, but the fact that we only have two ice screws and two crampons left makes it difficult to cross the crevasses."

Thursday, July 17, 2008


After a bit of confusion my Pakistani visa arrived today. Luckily clothing, tents, an amazing bivy sac and hard shell jacket all from Marmot arrived as well. This week feels like Christmas with my Phantom 8000 boots from Scarpa arriving and being fitted . With only two weeks to departure everything is coming together!

Much more about the expedition in the next few days!

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Nanga Parbat: Rupal Face 2008 Test

This is a test to see if the remote upload works.
Two weeks until we fly to Pakistan. Check back in the next couple of days to read about our team, plans and sponsors.