Wednesday, October 20, 2010

2010 Makalu, Broad Peak, K2 and Cho Oyu Recap: Ama Here I come

I am sorry that there has not been much updating here on the blog during the year, I had arranged - well I thought anyway - for someone to do it for me. To see individual trip reports please visit and as always somehow managed to keep up to date on what was going on.

I am in Europe enjoying a much needed two week holiday, then I fly back to Nepal to guide Ama Dablam.

Big plans are cooking for next year already! I am excited.

2010 Makalu, Broad Peak, K2 and Cho Oyu Photo Gallery 4

Yes, it is true, it was my idea. The CTMA had done a great job dealing with the rope fixing and I suggested to them that in order to end the season on a high note - as there were only a few summits - they throw a party for all at ABC. They did and it was great!

Tibetan hands. I took this photo in a house in Old Tingri. Luis and I had gone on a stroll and an elderly woman invited us into her house for tea. Neither of us drank any, but it was a rare treat to see a traditional Tibetan home.

Kinga and Patricia enjoy a bit of bacon in K2 base camp. I had to endure alot of laughter from our cook. Yummy though.

Me and Alix Von Melle, Makalu, May at 6800m. Alix is a member of the Marmot Team - Europe. I saw her again on Cho Oyu this September - she was not lucky enough for the summit on Makalu this spring, but tough enough for the summit on Cho Oyu - one of the few!

Gerlinde at 7800m just cresting onto the shoulder. I was breaking trail at this point, it was hard going in the crusty conditions.

2010 Makalu, Broad Peak, K2 and Cho Oyu Photo Gallery 3

The dividing line. This photo shows where the snow cut loose on Cho Oyu this september. As you can see, there were many shifting layers. Scary. And yes I really am that close to it while taking the picture, and yes it really is a meter high.

Makalu puja. These are festive ceremonies, the bottle of whiskey is mandatory.

Luis, leaving C1 6400m, on Cho Oyu this September. Many, many tents. Our Marmot Thor 3 is just below is in the sun.

Gerlinde and Ralf, in K2 base camp, July. We have a ritual, every summit push I eat breakfast with them the morning we set off from base camp. It has gone on for a few years now. It is fun and takes some of the pressure off. They are without a doubt some of my favorite people in the world. She has 13 8000m peaks (only K2 remaining), he has all 14. Ralf and I were in Queen Maud Land together ten years ago.

2010 Makalu, Broad Peak, K2 and Cho Oyu Photo Gallery 2

Tibet's best meat market. What is the meat? Great question. However we did buy one of them. This is main street Tingri, the last town before going into CBC. Cho Oyu

Our Puja before heading up Makalu. The Lama (seated) was very efficient, our expedition first and then two more that morning. They can only be help on auspicious days, and it is a few days walk for him to base camp, so makes sense.

Luis, a client on Cho Oyu this September, enjoying a beautiful day, and setting a personal altitude record every step higher!

Gerlinde and Kinga, the two best female altitude climbers. Notice the symmetry in footwork. We are all enjoying the sun during the second summit push, the first one involved 50km/h winds. I took this photo half way to C1, we all took a lazy pace this day in August.

2010 Makalu, Broad Peak, K2 and Cho Oyu Photo Gallery 1

Image from 7100m in August of Darek's suprise birthday celebration. Inside the blue box is a cake, we had alot of problems with lighting the candles!

Conga line heading to the serac on Cho Oyu this September. As you can see it is far from a wilderness or solo experience. It is still a beautiful mountain however, and I think this season proves there is no such thing as an easy or safe 8000m peak.

Stuart, one of my clients on Makalu this May, on O2 at camp 3, 7000m. Looks very much a spaceman.

Brian "BMoney" Block, heading into the higher camp 2, 6400m, on Broad peak in July.