Mulling over plans for the rest of the year, looks like I will return to the Baltoro, anybody up for a summer of sun and fun on Broad Peak?

And then after guiding in Nepal for the early autumn season a return to Nupstse, once I finishing funding everything that is...in case you missed this article on CAMP USA's blog last year here it is again...
http://www.golightgofast.com/2012/02/savage-mountain.html#comments

Please remember frequent updates appear on my facebook athlete page:
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fabrizio-Zangrilli-Climbing/235205046492925

Photo of K2 at night from base camp by Dave Ohlson of Ursus Films

Cholatse North Face

This spring after guiding I waited around for reasonable conditions to attempt to solo the North Face of Cholatse 6440 Meters in the Khumbu Valley of Nepal. Conditions never came, I reached the "1/3rd" snow band - the same height Steck/Wilkinson reached a week prior to my attempt. I will be back. For more photos and info please see my Facebook athlete page: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fabrizio-Zangrilli-Climbing/235205046492925
As Always thanks so much to Marmot, CAMP-USA, SCARPA, Ames Adventure Outfitters and CHUCS for the continued support! 

Managed to find some very fun mixed climbing near Cholatse. I am back in Namche for a day for a break and then back at it. Let's hope the snow cycle stops and allows for some stuff to get done! 

Khumbu Again

It is that time of year again, back in the Khumbu guiding Lobuche and Cholatse.

Photo of Ralf, Gerlinde, Me and David in Lukla after flying into the Khumbu, and randomly bumping into each other yesterday. That it the beauty of the Khumbu, today in Namche I bumped into some American friends headed to the West Ridge of Everest and some Czech friends going to Lhotse.
Read more about Ralf and Gerlinde in this month's National Geographic!
Made it to Namche today, and heading off to Tengboche tomorrow and then to Lobuche & Cholatse.

Nuptse west face history: Humar and Jeglic

I thought I would post a bit of information about the route on Nuptse which I attempted in early November.

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  As illustrated here, the route basically weaves a line up the middle of the West face.

  It was the visionary alpinists Tomaž Humar in Janez Jeglič who made the first ascent (and still, to this day, the only ascent ) in 1997. They climbed in alpine style, simul soloing all of it minus the labyrinth of an ice fall at the bottom of the route. With three bivies on the face they managed to find a way to the ridge. Tomaz graded the route at 2500m 90° IV-V (50-70°, V).

  Tragically Jeglič was blown off the summit by very strong winds, forcing Humar to descend alone. It is one thing to attempt the wall – or any climb - alone; It is entirely another to have experienced such an intense climb with a partner, experience such tragedy at the summit and and have to find a way down without them, entirely alone.

  
  

  
  

  

  
  

  Janez Jeglic:

  Delving briefly into climbing history book of achievements in Patagonia and Slovenia you will quickly come to understand just what an amazing alpinist Jeglič was. He managed to author some of the greatest routes there. Here is a selected Biography from his wikipedia page:

  1983 : Fitz Roy '83 - / The Devil's Dihedral (VI +, A2, 850 m) column at SV

  1985 : Jalung Kang '85 - to m

  1986 : Torre Egger '86 - southeastern wall (VII +, A3, 90 st., 950 m)

  1986: Cerro Torre '86 - primarily through the east wall (

  1988 : Cerro Torre '88 - with Silvom Karom diretisima Clockwork / The Hell's Direttissima (VIII + / VII-, A3-4, 70-95 st., 1200 m) through the south wall

  1990 : Bagirati III '90 -

  1990: the international Alps-Adriatic '90 Everest Expedition

  1993 : USA '93 - the Jolly Roger Yosemite

  1994 : Cerro Torre 94 - (VIII-, A4, 90 st., 800 m) in the South wall of the Cerro Torre

  1996 : USA '96 - repeat Sea of Dreams (VI, 5.9, A5) El Cap

  

  Tomaz Humar:

  Tomaž was an international star and much has been written about his tremendous achievements and contribution to mountaineering. Sadly, he died while soloing Langtang Lirang in November of 2009. More information can be found about him on www.humar.comThe Slovenians have of course led the way in terms of what Himalayan alpinism (perhaps global) should be like while the Polish took the prize for who could suffer the most.

  
  

  
  

  
  

  My absolute greatest hero remains Slavkom Svetičičem another Slovenian. He was really the first one to take the idea of fast and light and solo to the biggest walls in the world. He unfortunately died with soloing the west face of Gasherbrum IV in 1995. For more information about him please see http://www.slavko-sveticic.com/

  Ok Enough history for now....time to start training and looking forward to planning some additional guiding projects, skiing, ice and mixed climbing this winter..!

  Topo photo is By Fabrizio Zangrilli

  Jeglic photo is from hi wikipedia page

  Humar photo is form his website

Kathmandu: post guiding and Nuptse

Sorry it has been a while since I have updated here, it seems to be easier to update my Facebook athlete page (fabrizio zangrilli climbing) while away in the mountains.

Guiding for the month of October was great, it was a trip based on alpine skills and while conditions were really not great after the two major snow events (first in mid Sept and then again early Oct) we managed to be flexible and found better conditions on a mountain we had not planned on climbing originally. My goal was to teach skills that would create an alpinist - for sure a solid start.

November gave me an opportunity to try something that I have been looking at for 15 years. I knew going into it that conditions were less than ideal, but it was worth giving it a go anyway. I learned a lot about the wall, a lot - and cant believe how big everything was, the adventure, the seracs, the avis, how much sugar snow can cling to steepish blue ice - everything. There are more photos here on my Facebook athlete page (there are a few hard earned secrets I will not be sharing about the first crux though) . More photos to come.....

First photo is Nuptse's west face with Everest behind, Second is my bivy/base camp - clearly not a well funded nor big expedition. I am eating everything in sight, and trying my best to get out of here which is harder than I would like so might be here for a while.

Thanks so much to Marmot, CAMP, SCARPA, Ames Adventure Outfitters and CHUCS Dive and Mountain Shop for the continued support!

Khumbu Alpinist Course: Lukla

Landed in Lukla and all of our bags made it as well! So happy to start
trekking to Monjo today.