ski touring: the best training? and alot of fun

Lots of photos, words to follow. Video sound is poor, sorry, it was very very windy.

Red Bull Racing: F1 at its best!

More on this to come.

Welcome to the Tatras!

Conditions are variable where ever one travels, but in the Tatras they can really change. Old School climbing club books that essentially vouch for your ability in the mountains, elusive mountains, Yosemite National Park trained Park Rangers and home made grass protection all add to what should be an adventure. We will see, updates to follow!

Indoor drytool training - Schmoolz and Alpkit

Photo from http://schmoolz.com/blog/

I have been searching for a great tool to train indoors with for the mixed season. I have suffered many injuries from tools skating off plastic holds - and for several pre winter training seasons I took to wearing a hockey helmet to protect my teeth, nose and head. While everybody is going plice crazy I am too busy traveling to have a fixed plywood thing....thing because it is late and I could not come up with a better word.

I recently found two companies from the UK, Alpkit - producers of the Figfour, and Schmoolz - producers of the Schmoolz dry tool. They both have the same concept, a wooden handle with a rubber strap that loops over standard indoor climbing holds, any indoor climbing hold. It seems the UK is way ahead of us when it comes to organized indoor training, and has a competition series already going and both manufacturers have actively pursued climbing gyms to let members use them.

Here is a good article comparing the tools, and the websites for Alpkit and Schmoolz. I think somebody in North America should think about distributing these. In the mean time they ship to the US and Europe.

Jeff Lowe's Metanoia Documentary

This is a super cool project, I really hope that you donate and this becomes a reality.

http://www.kickstarter.com/profile/jefflowesmetanoia?

What is the film about?
Nearly 20 years ago Jeff Lowe made an amazing solo first ascent on Switzerland’s Eiger North Face - in winter - without the usual expansion bolts that climbers use for protection on steep, blank rock faces. Jon Krakauer was there on assignment for Men's Journal to photograph and document the climb. Jeff’s survival on the “impossible climb” was nothing short of miraculous. Very strong climbers have tried to repeat the climb… not one has succeeded. Now an extremely talented and accomplished Swiss climber wants to fulfill his own dream of climbing Jeff’s route.

Once again acclaimed author Jon Krakauer teams up with Jeff, this time to narrate this compelling biographical documentary about the life and climbs of one of the world’s greatest alpinists.

In this movie we will travel to some of the most beautiful places on earth and experience firsthand what it is like to be high up in the great ranges. We will learn what sort of spirit drives a man to risk his life repeatedly, as the transcendent moments are revealed that shaped his very soul.

The characteristics that made Jeff Lowe an extraordinary climber and visionary are the same characteristics that engender his graceful response to the mysterious neuro-degenerative process that has robbed him of his climbing life and landed him in a wheelchair.

What is it that makes a person able to embrace their circumstances, no matter how devastating, and continue to find joy in every day life, while others struggle endlessly, still despairing of their losses or simply giving up? >

Cameras for Expeditions Part 1

Many people ask me what camera to use on expeditions, for the last 5 years I have been shooting with a Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX2, and it was really perfect. Batteries lasted well, very wide lens for a point and shoot and easy to use. Many of my climbing partners are very happy with the Canon G10 or 11, but I have never used them. Finally I decided to upgrade this year to what I think is best described as a mini DSLR, the Sony NEX-5. There are a few competitors in the mini DSLR market, the Olympus version being the other best I think. I opted for the currently available package deal of the body with both fixed 16mm and 18-55mm lens (there is another lens up to 200mm but the price is too high and the wait too long - dare to dream), I bought via B&H Photo in NYC and as always was grateful for the best prices and service - I must say I had some trouble with other buying options, that are still not resolved.

The Sony NEX-5 is a massive upgrade with variable lenses and full HD video capabilities it can do everything I used to be able to do with the lumix - including a wider lens and what I only dreamed of being able to do with a DSLR (dreamed because I didn't have one). It is taking a bit of getting used to, hard to teach old mountain climbers new tricks I guess, but I am happy with what I have shot so far.

The top shot with the red clouds is from Ama Dablam BC this November, it is the last photo I took with the Lumix, it still takes great photos, the other (below) is the Palac Kultury i Nauki (Science and Culture Palace) in Warsaw, and is the first photo I took with the Sony NEX-5. Both were hand held, in low light - obviously one in lower light - but for just a quick attempt to capture an image they both did well. I am very happy, more samples to come.

RMNP Rando Ski

Europe is cold, and then warm, I shall be in the mountains in a few days in Austria, but I wanted to post a bit of video shot in RMNP when I was out skiing with my friend Brian. I had just returned from Nepal, and was still jet lagged (or perhaps these days I am just constantly jet lagged) and wanted badly to get out skiing. We had been out in some fun winds the previous days, but on this day we finally made some turns. In the video I talk a bit about some new clothes from Marmot, specifically the Trient and Varient Jacket and Protour Pant. More video to come from Europe!

"Plastic and Feathers!"

"Plastic and feathers, it is only plastic and feathers, there is no
difference anymore between products and companies!" a very
enthusiastic shop owner I visited last week decried. I stood there and
nodded my head, what else could I do, he was giving me a great deal on
some product. I left the shop wondering is it all just plastic and
feathers? As soon as I pulled up to the door at the 'home for wayward
climbers' where UPS drops off samples and prototypes from the
companies I test for I was shocked to see what was definitely not just
feathers and plastic. At one of the trade shows last year, Marmot sat
a good number of the athlete team down for a chat to see what products
we would really like to use and have. While some of us were a bit
skeptical that any product would appear from the meeting, I had
supreme confidence (read I was the head of skeptics), and there a few
months later, on the floor, lay several huge boxes full of products.
Plastic and feathers? Yes, but plastic and feathers with alot of
thought, engineering and honestly feedback from the team. Amazing I
thought, they are listening.
Delayed and cancelled flights have given me the time to sit and relax
- if you find sitting at the airport for 12 hours before they tell you
that you cannot fly to your destination for another 4 days relaxing -
and meet some very interesting people. Only in the Denver airport can
you meet a Polish diplomat, an IT person for a badminton company,
professional free-skiers and their camera crew, another guy from
boulder who skis and climbs and an irate Hindu holding British
Airlines responsible for the phenomenal snowfall and airport closures
across Europe.

I will be skiing, climbing, guiding, rando-racing and recovering from
a long himalayan year for the next couple of months, many photos,
videos and blogs to come!

Cholatse Spring 2011 Expedition

Join me on Cholatse (6440m) in Nepal this coming spring! This commercial expedition in the heart of the Khumbu region in Nepal is 30 days long, from March 15 to April 13. The route - the right hand skyline in the photo - combines glacier travel, rock, snow and ice. Cholatse has been called the quiet Ama Dablam, and offers perhaps even more spectacular views from the summit. For more information please see ganeshadventures.com/cholatse-6440m/ and for any questions please email info@ganeshadventures.com.

I look forward to climbing with you this spring!

Cosmic

Ski season is in full swing here in Colorado, while I have been rando skiing (ski touring) alot in RMNP many people have been getting after what seems to be the most fun you can have in the mountains - the Colorado Ski Mountaineering Cup. I had lunch with the promoter yesterday, Pete Swenson, who got me really psyched for some of the races - who also gave me a great deal with some Dynafit Skis (dynafit.us) and Bindings( with the help of Ian, Drew, Sarah and Chris at the office). I am really psyched as I am now running a pair of the Dynafit World Cup Carbon Race Skis with Low Tech Lite Binding, and a pair of Broad Peaks with TLT Vertical ST (I like these as i have a range of boots from light racing to high altitude guiding that I can use with them), combined with my Scarpa F1 Race (www.scarpa.com) boots and all of the race specific gloves, helmet, and backpack from CAMP (camp-usa.com) - yikes, it seems my only excuse is not enough training. Oh well, I have been saying alot lately that rando skiing is the most fun you can have in the mountains, hands down - saying it ALOT. To see photos from the race this past weekend and to see a bunch of tech tips on rando and racing check out http://www.ussma.org/cosmic/.

COSMIC RACE SCHEDULE RACE DATE LOCATION CS Irwin Lodge Rando Race 12/11/2010 CS Irwin Lodge The Heathen Challenge 01/15/2011 Sunlight Mountain, CO CAMP Ski Mountaineering Race at Crested Butte 01/29/2011 Crested Butte, CO COSMIC Sprint Race and SIA Uphill/Downhill Challenge 01/31/2011 Winter Park Ski Resort /SIA On-Snow Demo Race the Divide 02/13/2011 Monarch Mountain, CO Winter Wild 03/05/2011 Aspen, CO The Five Peaks 04/09/2011 Breckenridge, CO San Juans Rando 04/23/2011 San Juans Mts, CO Marmot Grind 04/30/2011 Arapahoe Basin, CO More information available at: http://www.ussma.org/cosmic/

More Ama Dablam and Island Peak Photos

Our group was very strong and motivated, luckily we managed to pick very good summit days for both Ama Dablam and Island Peak. Top: Michael and Roger lead the team on the way to Island Peak Summit. Second: Ruud just below the summit ridge of Island Peak. Third: View over the khumbu at sunrise at 6100m, with the shadow of Everest cast over the horizon. Bottom: Sunset over the Khumbu.

Summit Morning on Island Peak

Matching crowns: Cho Oyu and Ama Dablam

It is very interesting to note the two crowns, top Cho Oyu, bottom Ama Dablam - both at almost the same altitudes (6400m) - at almost the same time of year, at the same aspects, same height - 1 meter. The shapes are beautiful, but the consequences can be deadly.

Ama Dablam and Island Peak Summits!

The photos are from this November in the Khumbu Valley. I had a really great group for both Island Peak and Ama Dablam. We were very lucky I was able to call upon some personal contacts for a great forecast that let us sneak up and down with relatively low (30K) winds. The days on either side of the 26th - our Ama Dablam summit day - were very windy; they were far from ideal. I will post some pictures of the crowns from Cho Oyu and Ama Dablam in the coming days, they look amazingly similar. Panda Power!

Ama Dablam

Hello from Ama Dablam! Well actually Pangboche - I ran down to town as there is fast internet in a lodge there.
 We made it to base camp in great condition, everyone is feeling fit in the group. Today was a much deserved rest day, and a bit of packing, as tomorrow we head off to Island peak for a few days to acclimatize before climbing Ama Dablam.
Many teams have been topping out the past few days and base camp is clearing out nicely, when we return from Island Peak there should only be a couple of teams remaining. There is talk of a bit of bad weather coming in but it should not derail any of our plans.
I will report back shortly, thanks for following along.

Ama Dablam Helicopter Crash Update

The latest news is the helicopter crashed on the north side of the mountain attempting to rescue climbers on that side of the mountain. News is still sketchy, and very much third hand, but wanted to put people at ease who new people on the Normal (SW Ridge) route.

Helicopter Crash Ama Dablam

Hello from Namche Bazaar. All of the group are doing great, infact they are some of the fastest members I have ever had. We have been sitting around at the bakery eating yummy baked delights when we hear that a helicopter crashed at Ama Dablam. I know no details at this point, but we are all fine. I know many people who are at base camp right now, I hope that they are all ok.
More uptates to come.

2010 Makalu, Broad Peak, K2 and Cho Oyu Recap: Ama Here I come

I am sorry that there has not been much updating here on the blog during the year, I had arranged - well I thought anyway - for someone to do it for me. To see individual trip reports please visit www.fieldtouring.com and as always www.explorersweb.com somehow managed to keep up to date on what was going on.

I am in Europe enjoying a much needed two week holiday, then I fly back to Nepal to guide Ama Dablam.

Big plans are cooking for next year already! I am excited.

2010 Makalu, Broad Peak, K2 and Cho Oyu Photo Gallery 4

Yes, it is true, it was my idea. The CTMA had done a great job dealing with the rope fixing and I suggested to them that in order to end the season on a high note - as there were only a few summits - they throw a party for all at ABC. They did and it was great!



Tibetan hands. I took this photo in a house in Old Tingri. Luis and I had gone on a stroll and an elderly woman invited us into her house for tea. Neither of us drank any, but it was a rare treat to see a traditional Tibetan home.



Kinga and Patricia enjoy a bit of bacon in K2 base camp. I had to endure alot of laughter from our cook. Yummy though.





Me and Alix Von Melle, Makalu, May at 6800m. Alix is a member of the Marmot Team - Europe. I saw her again on Cho Oyu this September - she was not lucky enough for the summit on Makalu this spring, but tough enough for the summit on Cho Oyu - one of the few!



Gerlinde at 7800m just cresting onto the shoulder. I was breaking trail at this point, it was hard going in the crusty conditions.

2010 Makalu, Broad Peak, K2 and Cho Oyu Photo Gallery 3

The dividing line. This photo shows where the snow cut loose on Cho Oyu this september. As you can see, there were many shifting layers. Scary. And yes I really am that close to it while taking the picture, and yes it really is a meter high.



Makalu puja. These are festive ceremonies, the bottle of whiskey is mandatory.





Luis, leaving C1 6400m, on Cho Oyu this September. Many, many tents. Our Marmot Thor 3 is just below is in the sun.





Gerlinde and Ralf, in K2 base camp, July. We have a ritual, every summit push I eat breakfast with them the morning we set off from base camp. It has gone on for a few years now. It is fun and takes some of the pressure off. They are without a doubt some of my favorite people in the world. She has 13 8000m peaks (only K2 remaining), he has all 14. Ralf and I were in Queen Maud Land together ten years ago.

2010 Makalu, Broad Peak, K2 and Cho Oyu Photo Gallery 2

Tibet's best meat market. What is the meat? Great question. However we did buy one of them. This is main street Tingri, the last town before going into CBC. Cho Oyu




Our Puja before heading up Makalu. The Lama (seated) was very efficient, our expedition first and then two more that morning. They can only be help on auspicious days, and it is a few days walk for him to base camp, so makes sense.



Luis, a client on Cho Oyu this September, enjoying a beautiful day, and setting a personal altitude record every step higher!










Gerlinde and Kinga, the two best female altitude climbers. Notice the symmetry in footwork. We are all enjoying the sun during the second summit push, the first one involved 50km/h winds. I took this photo half way to C1, we all took a lazy pace this day in August.

2010 Makalu, Broad Peak, K2 and Cho Oyu Photo Gallery 1

Image from 7100m in August of Darek's suprise birthday celebration. Inside the blue box is a cake, we had alot of problems with lighting the candles!





Conga line heading to the serac on Cho Oyu this September. As you can see it is far from a wilderness or solo experience. It is still a beautiful mountain however, and I think this season proves there is no such thing as an easy or safe 8000m peak.




Stuart, one of my clients on Makalu this May, on O2 at camp 3, 7000m. Looks very much a spaceman.










Brian "BMoney" Block, heading into the higher camp 2, 6400m, on Broad peak in July.

Broad Peak/K2 Double Header 2010: Flight Delays

There are luckily very few climbers heading to Skardu this season, if there were more nobody would ever arrive. The Road has proved problematic and flights have been cancelled significantly over the past couple of weeks meaning priority is given to delayed passengers. Regardless of our longstanding reservations with PIA and the very large efforts of Imran and the whole ATP staff we have started to trickle in slowly.
Today 5 members flew to Gilgit and are now driving over to join us, a few are scheduled to fly tomorrow, Chris and a couple of guides in training are coming by road from Islamabad, and should be here tomorrow night. Fortunately it means we should only be one day off the back departing for Askoli, no big deal.
Skardu remains overcast and not as hot as usual, and means that the 5 members here with me will continue a bit of sightseeing and alot more tea drinking in the garden of the Concordia Hotel with views of the river - terribly civilized really.
High school graduation pranks and future desert crossing expeditions keep us occupied during meals- I was told the shocking news that Brangelina broke up last year as well - perhaps too much time in base camps and not enough time glued to TMZ.
I will keep you posted on our departure for Askoli and base camp.

Broad Peak/K2 2010: Karakoram is quiet!

I arrived in Islamabad two days ago to the news from Essar and Naiknam at ATP that the Karakoram will be very quiet this season. According to them there are only 25 permits sold to the entire range - including 6, 7 & 8000m peaks! Neither could remember such a slow year. Last year we thought was slow with around 70 permits sold - perhaps the economy, the events in Lahore and the Attabad (Hunza) flood and lake formation have really put second thoughts in peoples minds about coming. The KKH is supposedly in bad shape and the lack of people will be good for the always difficult to get seats on the flight to Skardu.

We are very fortunate to have a full Broad Peak and K2 trip! I must admit that I am looking forward to not so many teams in both base camps, alot of hard work lies ahead but it will make everything much more harmonious, less overcrowding at the camps and the possibility for all teams to come together for parties during the down time.

There are some old friends returning this summer and I cant wait to see them. I head to Skardu tomorrow to finalize all of the organization, luckily leaving the duty of getting the permits to Chris, my co leader at Field Touring Alpine this summer, when he arrives with the members in a couple of days - as our liason officer has not reported for duty yet.

Another Karakoram season is underway! I am psyched, 10 days rest between Makalu base camp and Skardu is enough time off mountains it turns out. It was great to spend long dinners and lunches with friends in Thamel. It was especially nice to see some people after they had been helicoptered off Makalu and see the frostbite was not as bad as originally suspected, celebrate with Tunc (congratulations again!) and friends from other mountains. luckily I will get a couple of weeks rest between the Karakoram and the Autumn season on Cho Oyu (finilize your bookings with Stu soon)!

I will be updating frequently from Broad Peak and K2 as we have figured out the email glitch with the PDA, so check back frequently and wish us luck!

Makalu Summit Bid Under Way!

Our summit bid got under way this morning and we have already reached C2 at
6700m! We are all feeling strong and excited about our chances in the days
ahead. Tomorrow we will move up to C3 at 7400m with hopes for great summit
weather on the 22nd or 23rd of May.

Wish us well!

Follow the daily updates at:
www.fieldtouring.blogspot.com

Makalu 2010 Update - April 17

Our team is back in BC after a good run up to 6700m to
acclimatize more and work on the tents at C2. The winds
have been very strong on the mountain and we have had to
be very patient. It looks like finally our summit window
will come next weekend with low winds predicted to begin
on the 21st and to last at least the 3 days we'll need!!

Wish us luck!

Catch up on all of the trip dispatches at:
www.fieldtouring.blogspot.com

Makalu Update - 7400m reached!

From Makalu BC
May 9, 2010

Our expedition is going very well with our team having
spent a total of 3 nights in C2 at 6700m and reaching
a high point of 7400m on the 7th of May. We are down at
BC safe and sound while the winds rage above our heads.

We will hope the weather in the week ahead allows us to
make a push above 7400m. Wish us luck!

You can find more written and audio dispatches at:
www.fieldtouring.blogspot.com

Still a few spots on my trips to Broad Peak & K2 for
this summer and for Cho Oyu, Alpine Training and Ama
Dablam for this autumn! If you are interested just drop
a note to "stu@fieldtouring.com".

Makalu 2010 Update - 28 April

From Makalu BC

Over the last few weeks we have travelled from Kathmandu to the Makalu BC
(5900m) and begun our work on the mountain. Since arriving we have spent 2
nights at C1 (6350m), installed Camp 2 (6700m) and are now enjoying a few
days of well-earned rest in BC!

Everyone on our team is climbing strongly, feeling well and excited about
the challenge ahead. We hope you will follow us as we attempt to summit the
5th highest peak in the world!

See all the dispatches and updates from the trip:
www.fieldtouring.blogspot.com

Makalu 2010

I am on my way to Kathmandu, I will be updating by email here as well as by voice messaging on fieldtouring.blogspot.com

Wish us luck!

2010/11/12 Expeditions with Fabrizio

Join me on an expedition in 2010/11/12!
Please email stu@fieldtouring.com for booking and logistics questions. I look forward to climbing with you!

2010
Makalu: April 10 - May 30
K2/Broad Peak Doubleheader: June 10 - Aug 14
Cho Oyu or Pumori: Sept 05 - Oct 15
Khumbu Expedition Training: Oct 15 - Nov 03
Ama Dablam: Nov 04 - Dec 04

2011

Aconcagua: January

Cho Oyu: April 10- May 30

2012

Everest: Spring Expedition

If you speak Japanese then check out this thing from the Japanese Marmot distributors.
www.descente.co.jp/marmot/athletes/index.html

Rock and Ice 25th Anniversary Milestone climbs

It is a huge honor to have 'Imperfect Apparition' - a route that Jack Tackle and I made the first ascent of in 2005, alpine style, on the SW Face of Mount Huntington, Alaska, recognized as one of the milestone climbs of the last 25 years. For more details on the route please see below. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP14/climbing-notes-tackle

Posted on Alpinist.com: December 1, 2005
MT. HUNTINGTON

By Jack Tackle

Perfect symmetry and complex faces always drew me to Mt. Huntington (3730m), but until May of this year I had never climbed it. On May 15, 2005, Fabrizio Zangrilli and I landed on the west fork of the Tokositna. Our intent was to climb a new route to the right of the Harvard Route on the Phantom Wall (west face) and left of the Smith/Teare Route on the far right side of the face.

After two days of recon—and the realization that W is clearly wrong about global warming—on May 19 we rappelled onto the face from the lowest point of the Stegosaurus. The terrain was moderate, and we simulclimbed all but one pitch up to the main rock headwall in the middle of the face. We struck out right onto beautiful brown granite—some of the best stone I have seen in the range—and quickly became absorbed in our objective. Fabrizio led two mixed pitches that followed a right-leaning traversing weakness. By the end of the second pitch, he found himself faced with an Alaska Range anomaly—a chimney system running with water at 4 p.m. at 10,200 feet. The thought of being soaked to the skin in this shower stall and enduring a bivy on unknown terrain was unappealing, so we left our two ropes fixed and rapped back to a snowfield where we chopped a bivy ledge and spent the evening waiting for the water to return to solid form.

At 4 a.m. the second day, we left the bivy gear and went light for the summit, intending to climb up and back in a single push. The former shower-stall chimney had seized up into a gorgeous section of mixed climbing that brought us in two pitches to a ramp system. Fabrizio took over, and we pitched out and then simulclimbed six pitches across the face into the center wall, which led us to the crux rockband. I searched for a weakness and found a flaring dihedral with a thin strip of ice in the back. Although it was only eighty feet long and led to easy ground above, it proved to be the most challenging part of the route. First Fabrizio, then I worked on this eighty-foot pitch. Finally, with some creative problem solving (tied-off Bugaboos for pro, a drytool traverse onto a rounded ledge, a manufactured number-three Camalot placement), I was able to break through our temporary barrier. It was now 6 p.m. We started simulclimbing again up the throat of the main upper face, heading for upper summit ridge of the Harvard and West Face Couloir routes.
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It was snowing and sloughing spindrift everywhere around us. We climbed until 11 p.m. and finally turned around when we could no longer see more than thirty feet in front of our faces. We had intersected the Harvard Route finish, maybe 500 feet below the summit. As we descended our route in darkness, the snow became more intense. We lost two hours dealing with a stuck rope on rappel in the coldest and darkest part of the night. In our attempts to pull the ropes, we also managed to strip forty feet from our second rope's sheath, reducing the length of our rappels, but increasing our resource of anchor material.

Twenty-seven hours after we left the bivy, we lay down and slept for five hours. I fell asleep while devouring my food and woke like a frozen Mastodon with unchewed jerky still in my mouth. We rapped off the lower Harvard rappels and a few hours later returned to a gracious reception from our base-camp comrades.

In keeping with proper alpine etiquette—tell the truth—and given our proximity to the Phantom Wall, and to the phantom summit, The Imperfect Apparition seems an appropriate name for our route (Alaska Grade 5+: M5 A3, 4,000').

Jack Tackle, Victor, Idaho

Midwest Mountaineering Winter Expo 2010

If you are in Minneapolis this weekend come down to the Expo! There is a huge sale and over 40 presenters - as well as my slide show at 4:30pm Saturday. For a complete schedule please visit http://www.outdooradventureexpo.com/200911/Index.shtml
Hope to see you!




Photo: Me and Rod outside the store just before the sales started yesterday.

Ouray Ice festival Clinics

Sign up for clinics with me at the 2010 Ouray Ice festival!
My Ice Fest Clinic Schedule:

Fri 9:00 -11:30 am - CAMP - Intro to Leading
Fri 12:30 - 3:00 pm - CAMP - Intro to leading


Sat 9:00 -11:30 am - SCARPA - Advanced Mixed Climbing M6 - M8
Sat 12:30 - 3:00 pm - SCARPA - Advanced Ice WI 5

Sun 9:00 -11:30 am - Marmot - Easy Ice WI 2-3
Sun 12:30 - 3:00 pm - CAMP - Intro to Leading

for more details and to sign up for clinics please visit: http://ourayicefestival.com/

Alpinist and Guinea Pig: Various Job Titles

This is how I spend a few days a month, oxygen deprived and monitored. Sometimes it is non invasive - pictured - and sometimes very invasive.
Today was very hard, a big drop in oxygen saturation, and too much on my mind. There are many people in the room monitoring me - well I thought there were at least. Don't quit your day job.

Humar's rescue: very sad news: Updated: Tragedy

The world lost one of its great personalities this week.

Tomaz, thanks for the great drinks at your house, I still remember that evening with great fondness..... Your were the best and the greatest inspiration! No one could match your intensity and love of life. My thoughts are with Maja and mutual friends.

____________________________________________
Langtang Lirung rescue update: Tomaz Humar missing, Swiss rescuers stuck in BC reports www.explorersweb.com

I am so sad over the news and developments. I am very aware of how the rescue team feels sitting in base camp. I know that Tomaz took great comfort in knowing many people were thinking of him during the similar situation on Nanga. I pray for better news.

This from Monday, January 07, 2008 from my own blog:
http://fabriziozangrilli.blogspot.com/2008/01/2-bottles-of-beer-is-all-it-takes.html

Sales Meeting, AORE and more......

I have been traveling for the past week, first to Tahoe and then to Minneapolis. It has been fun, learned a ton about the new amazing product coming out soon from Marmot, had alot of fun with the national and international sales groups and then met some amazing people at the AORE annual conference in Minneapolis. Highlights to follow, and more traveling this week. I cannot wait for the end of next week as I then get a week off to go climbing again....

Photo: One of the great people I have met over the past 6 weeks. Larissa and me at AORE.

Training for alpine climbing

Today I belayed someone who is a living legend in the climbing community, and it was fully eye opening. The three routes that they did allowed me to see that I had not actually reached a plateau in my training, I just was not trying hard enough, plain and simple. I was not climbing through where I thought I "should" fail. It is in this period of struggling that one's biggest gains are made. Before I left the ground I had basically decided that I would fail at a certain point. I received some great belaying and managed to push through the crux on my current project, I didn't finish it, but that is just an endurance issue, easy to deal with. I can handle more training, just not more training that is not benefiting me.

Training for alpine climbing

After three weeks of constant improvement I hit a dreaded plateau. My running times have not improved nor my level of redpointing in the gym. Stagnation, I did not think would come so quickly.
I managed to redpoint my project in the gym, and now I am really not climbing anything harder, perhaps the moves were just suited for me, and thus why I picked it as a project. Either way, I guess it is time for a bit of muscle confusion, both for climbing and for general aerobic endurance.

Thoughts on this to follow....

Training for alpine climbing

This week has been hard training wise. After "resting" (Saturday night was a late one) all weekend I was climbing very strong on Monday, then ran 8+ miles after; Tuesday I lifted with a total focus on push muscles and core then ran the same 8+ mile loop; Wednesday was a restday - although it involved a bunch of prodding and needles at a medical research facility - more on this later, but I have very interesting physiological responses to altitude, and very interesting to be at 6000m with cords and cables strapped to me once a week, while doctors monitor my O2 sats. Today, I was back climbing and it was not as strong as Monday but not bad. Tomorrow should be a nice day in RMNP so hopefully I will get a bunch of alpine mixed done.
The struggle to get stronger continues.....

Elevation Outdoors

Here is a link to an interview with me from the latest issue of Elevation Outdoors.
http://www.elevationoutdoors.com/index.php/fabrizio-zangrilli/

Training for alpine climbing

It has been two weeks since I last posted, I know I have been lazy, but not about training. I did a very good job of staying focused on the goal over the past month, and yesterday I started what I would call the process of really trying.

Over the past month I spent alot of time getting my body ready, just making sure that there were no nagging injuries and "lubricating" the joints. I ran about 200miles and climbed several thousand feet, lifted more than a proverbial ton and read alot about training.

Yesterday was an eye opener, I tried really hard at Movement (my favorite climbing gym in Boulder movementboulder.com) completing last weeks "project" and then almost onsighting a route that was a full letter grade harder. I warmed up pretty well - still need to improve at this, just a bit more discipline needed really, and then set about getting stronger.

I have found that several routes at my "limit" of onsighting and then working a couple of routes that are supposed to be above my ability and then back to redpointing and then finally a few cooldown climbs has been getting me strong. It is as unscientific as can be, but seems to be working well for me.

I stayed at Movement for 4 hours. I rested and rehydrated well, very well. What does pulling plastic do for alpine climbing you may wonder. My answer is that it has been crap weather out, I have had obligations on the days that have been good for the fun mixed that has climbed in RMNP since the snowfall and in the end if you can rock climb very well, you have the confidence needed in the mountains.

Oh yeah, after the gym session I ran 8.6 miles. I was tired after, but felt great. Perhaps the one thing I did poorly yesterday was eat enough.

Training for Alpine Climbing

Many clients and people I meet at slide shows or shops ask me how I train for alpine climbing, and I never have a concrete answer. I have never kept training logs, but over the next five months I am going to detail my training as I get ready for my upcoming trips to Alaska and Nepal in the Spring and Pakistan in the Summer. I have a decent aerobic base, and decent overall strength, but I just took one month off after the K2, Broad Peak and Latok II season due to fatigue, so I will start from the beginning to build back up to better climbing strength, and it wont happen overnight that is for sure. I had moderate nerve damage in my toes as well from this summer, which has been fun to deal with, but is slowly going away .

There will be method to the madness some days and others will seem random, however I am looking at a five month period before peaking, and in that time I will have many periods where I peak and plateau. Training for a goal makes it easier to stay focused, the key is to be consistent and maintain desire over the duration of training.

Training for alpine climbing, specifically for my goals (mixed routes in the Ruth Gorge in early spring, guiding on Makalu in April/May and then Nanga Parbat in the summer) requires a unique combination of aerobic conditioning and power endurance. I have trouble training aerobic capacity and power at the same time, but if you want to mixed climb for many hours in a day on a cold wall in Alaska you better be able to train both at the same time. The biggest issue for me has been finding the best recovery program, so as I figure out what is working for me I will post it.

I plan to update three times a week, sometimes more and sometimes less. If you have any comments on the training please feel free to email me.

I am a big fan of training instead of reading about it; but to get started on your own program I recommend Climbing: Training for Peak Performance by Clyde Soles. As I find literature specific to the phase of training I am in, I will post it.

AAO Fall '09 Clinic Tour

The Midwest Fall '09 clinic tour with AAO comes to a close and my return to climbing, instead of talking about climbing clothes, will happen this weekend. It was actually pretty fun, and certainly AAO (www.goaao.com) took great care of me. I learned alot about the needs of the Midwest in terms of sales and gear over the last three weeks. I will be back soon enough, but now it is time to go climbing for a while, while Brian, Vanessa and Jon continue the tour. Self portraits in front of a few stores in the Midwest territory.

SCARPA & CAMP Warehouse Sale

Check it out if you are in Boulder for the weekend and want to get a great deal on the best footwear, hardware, harnesses, etc...

time to start training

I have been out of the Karakoram for a month now, the feeling in my toes is just starting to come back and it is time to start training. Big plans in the future mean big training needs to be done. I am a firm believer in pushing it when training, in my opinion the strongest alpinist today is Ueli Steck, watch and get inspired!