Thursday, December 27, 2007

Blast from the Past: K2 2005 South Face

One of the greatest adventures I have had was with Bill Pierson in 2005 on the south face of K2. We had planned to climb up a mixed buttress to a 10 pitch chimney that joined the magic line at 7700m. After acclimatizing on the Abruzzi we finally got the least unfavorable forecast of the season and launched. Walking through the ice fall at the foot of the face was scary but uneventful, simul-climbing the lower slopes was fun with stuff falling all around up. The best fun were the open bivies. Super. Wouldn't have it any other way. The photos show me and Billy out in the open for a comfy night, Billy leading on the south face, me with the Chimney leading to the magic line. The forecast shut down on us, and we watched the wind whip the mountain from 7700m up. Rapping the face was really great, especially the second to last rap, off a prototype baby specter sunk to its second tooth! Billy went first, I stood there, clipping and un-clipping from the anchor. Hope to return someday.