Nanga Parbat: Rupal Face 2008: Photo Slide Show 4

Nanga Parbat: Rupal Face 2008: Photo Slide Show 3

Many more photos to come, please click on any you would like to see larger versions of. All rights reserved.

Nanga Parbat: Rupal Face 2008: Photo Slide Show 2

Random Photos, click on any photo to see bigger version, All rights reserved.

Nanga Parbat: Rupal Face 2008: Photo Slide Show 1

Many more photos to come, please click on any you would like to see larger versions of. All rights reserved.

Nanga Parbat: Rupal Face : Final Thoughts

Rupal Face : Final Thoughts

Disappointment and frustration sum up the way I am feeling.

It sounds crazy but in only 16 climbing days out of the 34 total days we spent at Nanga Parbat we logged 14,200m of scree, snow, ice and rock climbing - and as Dave puts it "we only almost made 6000m". Crazy was all that could be said once we had done the math. We tried is all that can be said about our attempt. Perhaps one of the biggest reasons for alpine climbing is the feeling of smallness and insignificance one gets compared to the mountain and the forces of nature - especially those experienced on a mountain the scale of Nanga Parbat. Nanga is huge.

What could we have done differently is a question that all teams that fail have to ask themselves. I am still thinking of things that for sure I will do differently next year. But the real answer is we were just plain unlucky with the weather. We were on target to be done acclimatizing by the 1st - 5th of September if we had just had 3 more days of good weather in August. Only 4 perfect days in 5 weeks is hard to be successful with. We made the most of marginal days, most of the time working from early in the morning (4:30am starts) and finishing in the afternoon in snowstorms. We just got unlucky.

BREAKDOWN OF DAYS ON THE MOUNTAIN:
1. AUG 4th - Trip up Glacier to find way to Messner - 400m
2. AUG 7th - Trip to Korean ABC from 2nd Basecamp and return - 600m
3. AUG 8th - Trip to C1 (4700m) and return - 1200m
4. AUG 9th - Trip to C1 and return - 1200m
5. AUG 13th - Trip to C1 and stay - 1200m
6. AUG 14th - Trip to 5150m and return to C1 - 450m
7. AUG 17th - Trip to C1 and stay - 1200m
8. AUG 18th - Trip to 5300m and return C1 - 600m
9. AUG 19th- Trip to 5450m and return to C1 - 750m
10. AUG 20th - Trip to 5500m and return to C1 - 800m
11. AUG 24th - Trip to C1 and stay - 1200m
12. AUG 25th - Trip to Snowcave at 5650m and stay - 950m
13. AUG 26th - Trip to 5700m (C2, Snowcave) and stay - 50m
14. SEPT 2nd - Trip to C1 and stay - 1200m
15. SEPT 3rd - Trip to C2 and return to C1 - 1000m
16. Sept 6th - Trip to C1 and return Basecamp - 1200m

My first impressions of the wall were that of a train wreck, so many thousands of pounds of ice hanging over your head for so long - how could Anderson and House justify it were my initial thoughts. Tomaz was lucky to live, was all I could think. Sitting and watching the wall I started to to get a sense (as much is really possible with seracs) of the rhythms, the distances, the intricacies and the scale. It was just plain ugly to me for the first few days, then everything changed when we got a clear view of it all and the route we thought might go from studying photos and talking it over with Tomaz in Slovenia last winter. Looking at it in person we thought the wall was actually climbable by another new route.

I got inspired - the Rupal Face central pillar area got under my skin, as I am sure it does any body's that sits under it and stares at it long enough.

Once again, thank you so much to CAMP-USA, SCARPA North America, Marmot, CiloGear, Brian at Ames Adventure Outfitters for all the miscellaneous support, Scott at KNS Reps for the support with Jetboil Products, and all of the other individuals that make these types of trips possible - especially Ingemar from Sweden.

K2 - Remembering Friends

Sitting in an Internet cafe in Islamabad reading on Explorersweb the recap of the tragedy on K2 this season it took me four attempts to get through the whole article, with a few laps around the market to absorb the news between paragraphs. Shock is the only way to describe my mental state. We were sheltered at Nanga Parbat, we used the Slovenian phone to update the blog - by reading a hand written blog entry to a voice mail then later to be transcribed by someone I am greatly indebted to - and to keep in touch with family but only once a week. There was no time or money to recount the story and casualties.

Sitting in the Internet cafe and strolling through the market I was instantly drawn back to a day after a prolonged snowstorm on K2 in 2005 when Billy and Meherban and I sat on a rock outcropping to take a break from trail breaking up to C1 on the Abruzzi. Laughing and sharing food, Meherban made jokes about the team he was working for and shared plans about future climbs he would like - especially Nanga. Later in the season his team refused him payment for certain days claiming he made carries those days out of friendship and not employment. I went to bat for him and he received his due pay.

Rolf was so kind in 2005 - as was his whole team, especially Cecile. Bad weather days in base camp were never so fun as in there heated tent watching movies on a laptop and eating popcorn with 10 of us craning for a view of the screen. They invited me to Norway to ice climb, I eventually made it but did not see any of the team - a huge regret now.

Hugues and I last year at K2 would sit together and chat for hours in French for what he would call "my daily French lesson".He talked about an upcoming sailing holiday and his house in Chamonix - both of which sounded much better than the Baltoro at the time. He offered up his weather forecast in return for the rope we and the Czech team had fixed to the shoulder. I will remember him as a kind and intelligent man.

Gerard I never met, but via email and the phone I sent and described the Cesen to the shoulder from my photos from last summer. I sent him photos from the Bottleneck and traverse from when I went through them in 2000. He said had he summitted he would repay me with a bottle of my favorite Scotch. A bottle I will buy and drink in memory of him.

Too many other events from the summer: Karl, Pavle, the generosity of Tomaz and what can only be described as the whirlwind visit from Messner. Recover, train harder, find money again, focus and return are the only options for dealing the the loss and failure.

Pumori - The next trip: October 2008

The first week of October I will be back in Nepal, guiding on Pumori until the end of November. This week I am traveling but will update each previous Nanga Blog with corresponding photos.

Nanga Parbat - Rupal Face - Dispatch 7. The end

On the 3^rd of September we struggled back up to C2 to find that the 2-3 ft of fresh snow we had previously been caught in was now 4-5ft.We dug for hours to find most of C2, and we decided enough was enough.

 

We arrived at BC almost 5 weeks ago, and so far have only had 4 bluebird days. The forecast calls for more rain and snow. There is no chance to acclimatise for the face. We have decided to pack up and go home.

 

Yesterday, Saturday the 6^th, we retrieved all our gear from c1 in a blizzard. Billy, Dave and I are safe and sound back in BC where it has now been snowing for the last 24 hours.

 

Thank you very much to Marmot, CAMP, Scarpa and Cilogear, and all the individuals that helped us. I hope we work together next year again on my next trip, and next year when we return to the face.

Nanga Parbat Rupal Face - Dispatch 6 - The beginning of the end?

 

The Weather has been bad i.e. snowing and raining almost non-stop for the past 7 days. To be honest since we have been here at Rupal Face BC there has only been 2 days 100% precip free.The weather is not looking good but time is running out. We must go above 7000m this week or time will run out.

 

A big thanks to Tomaz Humar, he sent me tools from Skardu, good to be part of the CAMP family.

 

Wish us luck

Nanga Parbat Rupal Face - Dispatch 5 - Snow holes and missing axes!

The last few days have been uncomfortable to say the least. We spent 25^th, 26^th, and 27^th in a shallow hole dug in the snow at 5750m, the site of camp 2 with a tarp thrown over it to sit out three days of constant snowfall. Three days and not much sleep later we decided to descend. Me swearing constantly, as my Marmot bivvy sac worked the best, so I got the snowiest side of the hole. Billy staring at me in silence seemingly saying 'you are saying enough for 2', and Dave continually saying 'lets all go on vacation again next year, this is so much fun' with us all bursting out in fits of laughter, as our plight finally got old.

 

Two feet of fresh snow put a hold on acclimatization. Somehow on the ridge leading for the serac at camp 2, one of my axes ('CAMP-Awax' if anyone would like to send one- Address: Rupal Face, Nanga Parbat base camp, via Karakoram magic mountains trekking agency, Islamabad) got knocked off as we sorted ropes in the storm and took the 2000m tumble to the valley floor. Oh well, rest a few days and back to the original plan of being done acclimatised by the 5^th.

 

On a very tragic note, we have just been made aware of the likely death Pavle kozjek, we are deeply saddened for the loss of one of the greatest alpinists and people of all time.

Our condolences go to his family, and hope for a safe rescue of his team mates.

Avery sad day for all

 

Wish us luck

Nanaga Parbat Rupal Face - Dispatch 4 - The Messner invasion

This morning the 23^rd whilst scanning the upper mountain through the telescope, we heard the sound of approaching helicopters coming up the valley. Within minutes tents were threatening to fly out of BC and the ever present goats and donkeys ran for their lives. Messner and his film crew had arrived. They said a quick hello and took off again to try to fly above 6000m as the clouds had parted.

 

Interestingly, Messner was filming with the same pilot who rescued Humar from the Rupal Face. I suppose no better pilot to film the face with. They promised to return for lunch.

 

A few more touch downs to reload film cameras mounted to the outside of the helicopters, and as promised we sat for lunch. I did a very short interview for the cameras, and after we all discussed the physical changes in the Rupal Face since 1970, when Messner first climbed it.

 

Then with a quick good luck the show left town.

 

Tomorrow we go up for what we hope is a weeks worth of acclimatization to reach 7000m. Then we start to watch the route for our attempt.

 

That's the hope anyway, wish us luck….

Nanga Parbat Rupal Face - Dispatch 3 - Camp 2 ....and there's no snow

On the 17^th, 4 days of great weather started and we took full advantage of it. Billy Dave and I, alternated leading and fixing 1150m of rope up the traversing 45-60 degree ice between C1 and C2. Finally on the 20^th I led the last 300metres to the top of the couloir that leads to the serac that C2 sits on at 5500m. We finished at 5pm in a snow storm, which was the obvious end to the good weather.

 

For 2 Days of the good weather, a helicopter continuously circled between 4200m and 5000m.We wondered what was going on as we were aware that Musharaf had resigned as president. On the 20^th the helicopter got close enough for us to see a cameraman hanging out the door filming us. When we arrived back at BC we learned that Messner himself was filming us for an upcoming film he is producing on Nanga Parbat. He landed in BC twice to interview us, but we were on the mountain. The rumour is he will be back

 

Billy, Dave and I are tired, but feeling good after 4 days of strong effort. It is crazy to think that we have climbed 2000m above BC, but still have so much more to go before being done with acclimatizing for the face.

 

We are hoping to be done with the Messner route by the 1-15^th September, which will leave us 3 weeks for our planned route on the face.

 

More to come…

 

Wish us luck

Nanga Parbat Rupal Face - Dispatch 2 - Camp 1

On August 8th we finally made base camp in beautiful Kap meadow. On our way here, around the Bazhin glacier, we saw the Rupal face for the first time. It's amazing, so large, with no order but resounding beauty. There is no obvious line up the route, but if you crane your neck back to see the upper wall, you can piece together options. Our hats go off to Anderson and house. If you have not stood below the face and seen what they had climbed in person, it is really hard to gather from photos the severity of their route. They obviously have superior mental strength to hold it together for so long in such a threatening route.
 
We have had a lot of good luck since moving base camp. We established camp 1 on the Messner (our acclimatization route), the day after arriving. It is 1300 meters above base camp, all of the climb on terrible scree. We have made 4 trips to it now and have slept 2 nights there, pushing up to 5200 meters yesterday before being held back by terrible snowfall.
 
We now have to wait for better weather.
 
Wish us luck!

Nanga Parbat Rupal Face - Dispatch 2, Camp 1

On August 8th we finally made base camp in beautiful Kap meadow. On our way here, around the Bazhin glacier, we saw the Rupal face for the first time. It's amazing, so large, with no order but resounding beauty. If you crane your neck back to see the upper wall, you can piece together options. Our hats go off to Anderson and house. I f you have not stood below the face and seen what they had climbed in person, it is really hard to gather from photos the severity of their route. They obviously have superior mental strength to hold it together for so long in such a threatening route.

 

We have had a lot of good luck since moving base camp. We established camp 1 on the Messner (our acclimatization route), the day after arriving. It is 13,000 meters above base camp, all of the climb on terrible scree. We have made 4 trips to it now and have slept 2 nights there, pushing up to 52,000 meters yesterday before being held back by terrible snowfall.

 

We now have to wait for better weather.

 

Wish us luck!

Nanga Parbat - Rupal Face. Dispatch 1, Base Camp?

On August 5th, only 3 days after arriving in Islamabad, we trekked into Herligkoffer base camp which was the same launching spot as Humar had for the Rupal face. Our cook staff, also some of the same as Humar had, said it was only a half hour easy glacier crossing to reach the start of the Messner, our intended acclimatisation route.

7 hours of trying later, we realised that the glacier crossing was not possible without a ladder or 2 and a lot of fixed rope. This is amazing, given that our cook staff were here only 2 weeks ago with a trekking group, and managed to cross it easily.

When we returned after trying, we brought our cooks up onto the glacier, and they were amazed at the considerable change. More than a week of rain has changed the glacier significantly. This glacier was so easy to cross in 2005 that Humar used mules to transport gear and food to our intended ABC. It is now impassable.

We called for extra porters this evening as we must move our base camp further south, about 4 to 5 hours away to another grassy meadow, also 3500m. We pooled our money, unsure of what we will do when we need to return to get on the face proper in 1 month time.

I guess we will take it day by day. This starts the adventure again. We hope for better progres this week.

On a very sad note we heard by word of mouth, that there has been a huge accident on K2. We have friends there and hope that this rumour is false.

Wish us luck and happy climbing until our next update.

Nanga Parbat Rupal Face: Departure and Thanks

Billy, Dave and I start the long trip to Islamabad today.

 

Trips to the Rupal Face don't happen without alot of support from many people. The past few weeks have been so great for me; I really have felt the proverbial love from Chris, Kim and Gary at Scarpa, Andy and Jordan at Marmot, Jesse and Tommy at CAMP USA, Graham at CIlo Gear, and from great friends like Brian at Ames Adventure Outfitters, Scott at KNSReps for all the help with Jetboil stoves and Matt at Four Winds Himalayan Guiding. Everybody has gone above and beyond to help me out with last minute gear requests and logistics.

 

I must say that I would not have been able to train and focus as much on this trip for the past year without the support of Elizabeth and Tom who have been my Boulder base camp. Ingemar must be thanked as well as this trip would not happen without his financial support.

Thanks again everybody,

Wish us luck and check back for updates! 

Rupal Face Gear List

Many people are asking me what are we taking for gear, so here is everything I am packing. I am sure there is more gear than listed, but this is the meat of it.
 
Sleeping:
Tent: Marmot Alpinist
Bivy Sac: Marmot Alpinist Bivy
Sleeping Bag: Marmot Helium EQ
Thermarest Inflatable and foam Z Rest
 
Footware:
1 Pair Scarpa Phantom 8000
1 Pair Scarpa Quest
1 Pair Scarpa Vision - for bouldering in base camp
 
Packs:
Marmot Matterhorn 42
Cilo Gear 45L Dyneema Worksack
 
Personal Hardware:
1 Pair Camp Vector Nanotech Crampon
1 Pair Camp Awax Leashless Ice Axes
1 Camp Quartz CR Harness
1 Camp Stratech Helmet
1 Camp Pulse Helmet
 
Group Hardware:
1 Full Set Cams
1 Full Set Camp Carvex Hexes
1 Full Set Camp Tri Cams
1 Full Set Camp Radion Ice Screws
1 Full Set Camp Stoppers
50 Camp Nano 23 Biners
1 Sull set pins
1 Camp Alu Fix Shovel
2 Jet Boils Stoves: 1 1.5L Pot, 1 1L pot
 
Personal Clothes:
1 Marmot Ama Dablam Down Jacket
1 Marmot Guides Down Vest
1 Marmot Exum Jacket
1 Marmot Superhoer Jacket
1 Marmot Power Strech Shirt
1 Marmot Scree Pant
1 Marmot Dryclimb Stretch Pant
Gloves: :4 pairs
Socks: 4 pair

Nanga Parbat: Rakiot Face - The Tragic death of Karl Unterkircher

Below is a quote from Alpinist.com about the situation on Nanga Parbat's Rakiot Face right now. Another website, explorersweb.com, is reporting that Nones and Kerhrer, who have now requested a helicopter rescue at 6600m, have two days of food and fuel and the the weather forecast for tomorrow is not a great one. Let's all hope for a break in the weather, a successful rescue, either from Mondinelli in base camp or again the astounding Pakistani helicopter pilots. I write this very saddened by the tragic news of another friend's, Karl Unterkircher, death.

We leave for the Rupal Face next week, for sure a little weighed down by Karl's death.
I am busy sorting out more gear, this time from CAMP USA (www.camp-usa.com), and finishing last minute arrangements for my Pumori clients for October.

"Two Italian alpinists on Nanga Parbat, Walter Nones and Simon Kerhrer, requested a helicopter rescue after their attempt to descend again came to a standstill. Nones and Kerher are the surviving teammates of Karl Unterkircher, who was lost in a crevasse six days ago on the mountain (read the July 16, 2008 Newswire). This morning, they left their bivouac at around 7000m, but soon faced bad weather and poor visibility. From another bivouac at around 6600m, they called rescue coordinators in base camp. "We don't see anything. It is to dangerous to continue," Nones and Kerher said. "We used our skis on some parts of the descent, but the fact that we only have two ice screws and two crampons left makes it difficult to cross the crevasses."

Visas

After a bit of confusion my Pakistani visa arrived today. Luckily clothing, tents, an amazing bivy sac and hard shell jacket all from Marmot arrived as well. This week feels like Christmas with my Phantom 8000 boots from Scarpa arriving and being fitted . With only two weeks to departure everything is coming together!

Much more about the expedition in the next few days!

Nanga Parbat: Rupal Face 2008 Test

This is a test to see if the remote upload works.
Two weeks until we fly to Pakistan. Check back in the next couple of days to read about our team, plans and sponsors.

The Best Summit Pack: Cilogear 30L Dynema

As you can see from the posts about Frances and soon the posts of the overall season for me in the Alaska Range, I managed to convince Graham at Cilogear to let me test the Dyneema 30 L pack. I managed to fit everything in it for a 10 hour trip up the SW Ridge of Frances and also a 4 day journey on Denali - yes, I got bored of people asking me if I was on a day hike.
The pack carries much better than I expected, and the shoulder straps are surpisingly comfortable. With a bit of bungee cord I managed to strap my crampons on and I was the happiest person moving up Denali for sure. (OK, we cheated a bit by bringing no food to 14k as we knew that people would have too much there, and ended up making quesadillas for Merrick, Steve, Glen, Gren, Seth and myself for hours!)
If you need a great day pack that will not wear out I recommend the Cilo Gear 30l Dyneema pack!

Mount Frances: IV, 5.8, 60 degree snow, 1,100m: 10 hours round trip

Mount Frances' south west ridge sits only 30 minutes from Kahiltna base camp, I had seen it for years and only just this year was bored enough to do it. Well it is well worth the effort. Prying oneself away from Lisa's base camp is hard when you can just sit around, drink beer, Gatoritas, eat burritos and receive packages from England, and pick Mark's brian for all of the Alaska Range beta(any better resource?) - but when you do manage to pry yourself away, the SW Ridge is so much fun. 

A few Photos:

Surgery - The Thing

I arrived in Nepal with a thing growing on my face - I was afraid the Nepalese authorities were going to make me buy two visas to enter the country it was so big. The thing trekked all the way up the Khumbu with me until the village of Machermo, where a very brave and talented Dr. Tallon (AKA Dr. Z) said it had to go - well I may have begged a bit to get it cut off. Dr. Tallon very skillfully missed all facial nerves and I only whimpered a bit. There is very little scaring, much to my disappointment. Who knows what it was, but it is luckily gone now.

Talkeetna Alaska

It has been a while since I have posted, soon I will post blogs on Dawa Peak, Mount Frances, Nanga, Cilogear 30L pack - the bomb!, and generally what I have been up  - all this week sometime.

Photo: Brian Block between the false and real summit of Mount Frances, Alaska Range, around midnight last day of May.

Slovenia: Final Post

There are people you meet that change your perspective, show you the way, open your mind and heart. Few people have really been heroes of mine, few have been real guiding lights. It has been a problem for me from a young age, I should have understood that others can teach me more than me just learning from trial and error – usually the latter. Fortunately for me, I have been able to spend some time with a true hero of mine, someone that I think has perfected life, living it the way I think it should be lived. For such a legend, I was really surprised by his openness, his willingness to share beta, photos, stories, beer and schnapps! Really a super person. Obviously he will remain nameless, so I don’t come off as a name dropper, that comes in the next paragraph.

How does one get to that point, a level of success and emotional comfort? Not sure. It is refreshing to spend time with people that are living life to the fullest, really pushing their limits and also the limits of a community. My experience has always been that the best people in any given field are usually the nicest and most fun to hang out with as they having nothing to prove anymore; examples like Tackle, Babanov, Gadd (not that I have hung out with him, just always willing to answer emails), Jay Smith, and most recently Anderle and Humar.

It must be nice to have nothing to prove to anyone, to have reached a level of comfort and satisfaction that to the outside world you can do no wrong.

I depart Slovenia with great appreciation for the natural resources, the friendliness of the people and the home-made schnapps! Off to new adventures for me- guiding and climbing in Nepal for the early spring, climbing in the Alaska Range with 3 different friends for late spring/early summer and finally a great adventure at the end of the summer with a few close friends in Pakistan.

None of this would be possible without the support from a few people and companies that have been very generous financially and more importantly offering tremendous amounts of friendship, helping with the large and small aspects of me living this vagabond lifestyle. Thanks very much!

I found this equation on the internet the other day, on an ice climbing thread, Risk = probability of success x severity of outcome. The greater the dream, the greater the risk I imagine. Luckily life never fits an equation.

The Peace Sign Turns 50!

This is copied from www.bbc.co.uk

It started life as the emblem of the British anti-nuclear movement but it has become an international sign for peace, and arguably the most widely used protest symbol in the world. It has also been adapted, attacked and commercialised.

It had its first public outing 50 years ago on a chilly Good Friday as thousands of British anti-nuclear campaigners set off from London's Trafalgar Square on a 50-mile march to the weapons factory at Aldermaston.

The demonstration had been organised by the Direct Action Committee Against Nuclear War (DAC) and the Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament (CND) joined in.

I drew myself: the representative of an individual in despair, with hands palm outstretched outwards and downwards in the manner of Goya's peasant before the firing squad Gerald Holtom

Gerald Holtom, a designer and former World War II conscientious objector from West London, persuaded DAC that their aims would have greater impact if they were conveyed in a visual image. The "Ban the Bomb" symbol was born.

He considered using a Christian cross motif but, instead, settled on using letters from the semaphore - or flag-signalling - alphabet, super-imposing N (uclear) on D (isarmament) and placing them within a circle symbolising Earth.

The sign was quickly adopted by CND.

Holtom later explained that the design was "to mean a human being in despair" with arms outstretched downwards.

US peace symbol

American pacifist Ken Kolsbun, who corresponded with Mr Holtom until his death in 1985, says the designer came to regret the connotation of despair and had wanted the sign inverted.

Anti-Vietnam protesters at a rally in New York

"He thought peace was something that should be celebrated," says Mr Kolsbun, who has spent decades documenting the use of the sign. "In fact, the semaphore sign for U in 'unilateral' depicts flags pointing upwards. Mr Holtom was all for unilateral disarmament."

In a book to commemorate the symbol's 50th birthday, Mr Kolsbun charts how it was transported across the Atlantic and took on additional meanings for the Civil Rights movement, the counter-culture of the 1960s and 70s including the anti-Vietnam protests, and the environmental, women's and gay rights movements.

He also argues that groups opposed to those tendencies tried to use the symbol against them by distorting its message.

How the sign migrated to the US is explained in various ways. Some say it was brought back from the Aldermaston protest by civil rights activist Bayard Rustin, a black pacifist who had studied Gandhi's techniques of non-violence.

Vietnam

In Peace: The biography of a symbol, Mr Kolsbun describes how in just over a decade, the sign had been carried by civil rights "freedom" marchers, painted on psychedelic Volkswagens in San Francisco, and on the helmets of US soldiers on the ground in Vietnam.

The peace sign was adopted by the counter-culture movement

"The sign really got going over here during the 1960s and 70s, when it became associated with anti-Vietnam protests," he told the BBC News website.

As the combat escalated, he says, so did the anti-war protests and the presence of the symbol.

"This, of course, led some people to condemn it as a communist sign," says Mr Kolsbun. "There has always been a lot of misconception and disinformation about it."

As the sign became a badge of the burgeoning hippie movement of the late 1960s, the hippies' critics scornfully compared it to a chicken footprint, and drew parallels with the runic letter indicating death.

In 1970, the conservative John Birch Society published pamphlets likening the sign to a Satanic symbol of an upside-down, "broken" cross.

While it remained a key symbol of the counter-culture movement throughout the 1970s, it returned to its origins in the 1980s, when it became the banner of the international grassroots anti-nuclear movement.

Power

The real power of the sign, its supporters say, is the reaction that it provokes - both from fans and from detractors.

In the UK, the sign is still associated with the Ban the Bomb movement

The South African government, for one, tried to ban its use by opponents of apartheid in 1973.

And, in 2006, a couple in suburban Denver found themselves embroiled in a dispute over their use of a giant peace sign as a Christmas wreath. The homeowners' association threatened them with a daily fine if they didn't remove it.

The association eventually backed down because of public pressure, but a member told a local newspaper it was clearly an "anti-Christ sign" with "a lot of negativity associated with it.".

Commercial

A US soldier patrols a village outside Baghdad

CND has never registered the sign as a trademark, arguing that "a symbol of freedom, it is free for all". It has now appeared on millions of mugs, T-shirts, rings and nose-studs. Bizarrely, it has also made an appearance on packets of Lucky Strike cigarettes.

A decade ago, the sign was chosen during a public vote to appear on a US commemorative postage stamp saluting the 1960s.

The symbol that helped define a generation of baby boomers may not be as widely used today as in the past. It is in danger of becoming to many people a retro fashion item, although the Iraq war has seen it re-emerge with something like its original purpose.

"It is still the dominant peace sign," argues Lawrence Wittner, an expert on peace movements at the University at Albany in New York.

"Part of that is down to its simplicity. It can be used as a shorthand for many causes because it can be reproduced really quickly - on walls on floors, which is important, in say, repressive societies."

And can its success be measured? Fifty years on, wars have continued to be waged and the list of nuclear-armed states has steadily lengthened.

But the cup is half-full as well as half empty.

"There are many ways in which nuclear war has been prevented," says Mr Wittner. "The hawks say that the reason nuclear weapons have not been used is because of the deterrent. But I believe popular pressure has restrained powers from using them and helped curbed the arms race.

And the symbol of and inspiration for that popular pressure, says Mr Wittner, is Mr Holtom's graphic.

Peace: A biography of a symbol is published by National Geographic Books in April.

Iditarod - Jeff Deeter Finishes 59th Place!

Jeff was part of the Four Winds group from last October trekking around the Khumbu. His Aunt, Anne, sent me an email to say, "Jeff was 59th out of the starting 96. 80 finished. About smack in the middle of the rookies. That seemed ok to me and then somebody explained that the whole Norwegian contingent of professionals are considered rookies because it's their first Iditarod. So in that light, he did excellently! We're all very proud of him!! Check the Jeffdeeter.com site and run some of the you-tube videos. This is all the more impressive when you check out his age!

Kozeljeva Smer III+ 450m UIAA 6/A1 - Attempt

Kozeljeva Smer on Begunjska Vrtaca I hear is a not often tried route. It is really cool though, steep sections that connect snow slabs, for 450m - conditions are kinda crap right now, so this was the best option. However, after the second "fixed" pin pulled on me and the rotting fixed wood block - protecting the #6 Camalot placement - seemed to disintegrate infront of my eyes I figured it was enough. Fun enough to go aid climbing out a big , well 4m, roof that was awkward as anything. It was warm as anything as well and the snow sliding from above my head - missing me by less and less every meter higher I climbed - also put a quick end to the day. Still, better than being a desk jockey .

Dean Potter Baselining

No not free basing, just high lining with no tether, just a B.A.S.E jumping rig. I got an email from Sender Films with a link to The New York Times website, video section, and holy cow, this is amazing, so thought I should share. http://video.on.nytimes.com/?fr_story=2250f3a22c021b713e2855f7b2773c2778f3248c

Everest closure

Everest closure - Taken from BBC online

Radio Free Asia reported that a number of monks were arrested on Monday after a march marking the 49th anniversary of a Tibetan uprising against Chinese rule.

The radio station, which is funded by the US government, said hundreds of monks took to the streets the following day to demand the release of their fellow monks - and were dispersed by tear gas.

India halts Tibetan march

Campaigners based outside China say protesters in Lhasa are being spurred on by rallies in other Chinese provinces and in India.

Matt Whitticase from the UK-based Free Tibet Campaign said protesters in Lhasa had been "emboldened" by the support they were receiving from across the world.

"Tibetans inside Tibet are aware that Tibetans in India are marching towards the Tibet border," he said.

Tibetan exiles in India began a march to the border with China on Monday - one of several events protesting against the Beijing Olympics and campaigning for an independent Tibet.

But Indian police arrested more than 100 of the exiles, saying their march breached an agreement between Delhi and the Tibet's India-based government-in-exile, headed by the province's spiritual leader, the Dalai Lama.

A surge in Tibetan activism could become a security headache for China in the run-up to the Beijing Olympics, correspondents say.

This week the Chinese leadership closed the north face of Mount Everest until after the Olympic Flame ascends in May, for fear that activists might use it to stage photogenic Tibet-related protests.

Brotherhood of the Mohawk

Andreas Spak, (www.andreasspak.com) 31 years old, from Sweden originally, now living in Rjukan is one of the main proponents of the big ice in Norway and sometimes crazy world of underground ice in Sweden. On my recent trip to Norway I was lucky enough to spend time hanging out and being employed by Andreas’ company (co owned with Seth Hobby) Northern Alpine Guides (www.northernalpineguides.com), discovering that we had similar tastes in music and attitudes towards the futility of climbing.

Andreas is a big believer, in an ego driven community, that nothing is special about a good climber, “it just means they practiced more”, and that paragliding – his new passion – is way more fun. Outspoken about, well, a lot of things climbing and steadfast about how climbers are not true athletes, forgoing serious training to just hang out and be seen as a part of a community, and that all semipro climbers should just get an office job. Andreas has climbed the hardest and longest ice climbs currently done in Norway, explored the very old and scary underground ice in Sweden and partnered some of the best known climbers anywhere. I asked Andreas a few questions, promising him fame as the first person to be interviewed in my new blog series: Climbers I wish I could Be: Upclose and Unpersonal. Sounds official huh? Let's hope he is joking about the last question! Photos of Andreas courtesy of www.andreasspak.com and me with Uli Biaho behind taken June 2007 Karakoram.

1.You grew up in Sweden and moved to Norway because of the climbing, what was so special about climbing for you?

A) Good question, don't know actually. I started when I was 16 I think, but quickly found out that Sweden is not a suitable country for ice climbing (this was before I knew about the ice mines), so decided to move to a location where I could climb every day.

2.What have been the two best days of ice climbing for you?

A) Tough one. Hmm, I guess the two first days of our ice mine trip (though we didn't actually climb those days) because of the amazing scenery and excitement of being at an extremely cool place.

3. Why do you enjoy paragliding to ice climbing more right now?

A) I just recently started paragliding and every time I go out flying I learn a lot. When you do something for the first time, or when you're at a starting fase of something, you get a different (call it innocent, humble, better?) view of it, than the expert have. Being a beginner is cool, no matter what you do, and it's inspiring.

Ice climbing for me now is more about finding cool places to climb and hanging out with friends. I still have a few really really cool projects on ice here in Norway, wild stuff that is rarely in condition. Waiting for it...

4. You recently traveled to the Paragliding World Championships in Mexico, did you take part, was there a difference in the community, Climbers vs. paragliders?

A) It actually was a pre world cup and I didn't participate in the comps. Paragliding is a more complex activity then climbing I'd say. Not necessarily more difficult or more dangerous, just harder to figure things out, resulting in a less steep learning curve (if done safely that is). Being down there in Mexico, hanging out with some of the best pilots in the world, was extremely educational.

The most significant difference I noticed, between climbers and pilots, was fitness. Paragliding can be a very physical sport, but doesn't have to be...

5. Was ice climbing in a cave the weirdest thing you have done, in climbing?

A) It wasn't caves, but old iron mines. Without doubt the coolest thing I've done with ice tools. We could have gone to the west coast of Norway again, or put up some mixed route in Canada, but that would have been repeating what I've been doing for years. It would have been just another route, just another piece of vertical ice or steep rock. In the ice mines we found all the ice any climber in the world can wish for, in an extremely cool environment.

6. Who have been your best partners and why?

A) My wife, for obvious reasons, but she doesn't climb much anymore. I like climbing with friends of course, but on the other hand, I've met most of my friends (if not all of them) through climbing or related activities such as drinking beer.

7. Your Punk band, Misconduct, is it still going? What instrument do you play? Is there a website for people to check it out? What music are you listening to now?

A) I played in many different bands before I got obsessed by climbing (way back). My sister's boyfriend Fredrik AKA “Fred Riot” Olsson (Sweden) started one of the first Straight Edge Hardcore (call it punk if you wish) bands in Sweden, named Misconduct (www.misconduct.nu). I've been touring with them for a few years, playing guitar, but because I live in a different country and my sport-related, healthy activities takes up most of my time now, I don't play very frequently anymore. I'm more of a guest artist these days.

I listen to a lot of stuff, most recent download was some albums by the jazz bass player Jaco Pastorius. Mostly I listen to old school punk and HC, like “Sick of it All”, “Minor Threat”, “Gorilla Biscuits”, “Youth of Today”, that stuff.

8. Does “Punk” and all of its “anarchistic youth energy” influence your climbing?

A) Punk is a way of life, and attitude. I don't think you have to be a Black Flag fan with shaved head to have that attitude, but it helps. To me, climbing is all about freedom. I want a world with less rules and regulations, less methods for how to do things.

9. What do you think is the future of ice climbing in Norway? Do you think the sport climbers that dominate the comp scene will have the balls to step up to the plate and climb the biggest and scariest stuff?

A) Personally I think ice climbing as a comp sport is dead boring. They have been giving the Ice World Cup a good try now for the last 5 years or so, trying to prove who's the best ice climber (yeah right), but to me it doesn't look like it's going to survive for much longer. I have never fully understood the urge that some people have to institutionalize climbing, having federations regulating it, all that bullshit. The climbers that will push harder in the future, in Norway and other places, will be the ones that have the strongest motivation, like it always has been.

10. Will you give me a job at Northern Alpine Guides next winter so I can get a chance to live and climb some cool ice in Norway?

A) We want the best guys, so you're welcome on the team Mr Zangrilli!

12. Any question you wished I asked?

A) Yes, as a matter of fact there is. “Mr. Spak, what is your contribution to the climbing community?”

A) Being a computer programmer, I have for long seen the need for a more sophisticated and structured way to get rid of stupid route names. The idea is to give every new route a 10 digit hexadecimal code as the name of the route. For example, 84993a9cce. It would also be convenient to add the climbers that did the first ascent to that code, so every climber should be registered at UIAA with a personal id, for example 1004300702. It should also include stuff like grade, pitches and location

An example:

84993a9cce (route name)

1004300702 (climber id)

5 (grade, skipped the WI because it's not a hex)

3 (# of pitches)

65949939302333 (location, N and W skipped in UTM format)

So, a future route name could be something like this:

84993a9cce10043007025365949939302333

Norway Post #2: Hydnesfossen, The Mirror Project, Nobel & The Paper Clip

I did manage to see some impressive ice in Norway as the temps began to drop the last couple of days I was there, but conditions remained miserable. Hydnefossen in a WI5/6, depending on the line you take, when in good conditions and a WI horror show when not psyched to deal with bullet hard ice in -11C temps. Seth and I went up to it on Sunday with strong winds blowing snow over the cornice, then a bit of the cornice broke free. We tucked tails and ran away. The next day we returned and found a trio of Italians had rested the day before (smart) and had utilized our trail from the day before and were having a very frustrating time on the brittle ice. We suited up and Seth started up the first pitch, unlike the Italians we were not so desperate to climb ice, and after a half rope length Seth rapped off, our turn to be smart. The Italians might still be there is was such slow going, but hats off to them for the tenacity.
I enjoyed Norway so much, and am very grateful to a few people, first Seth Hobby, great to tour around with him, if you are looking for a North West(US), Nepal, Alaska or Norway guide look him up. Andreas Spak, Seth's Partner at Northern Alpine Guides (northernalpine.com) based in Rjukan, thanks so much for the hospitality (Scotch) and the fun evenings out and at his and Tonia's flat. Martin and Amel and the kids, thanks so much for letting me stay!!! The Hemsedal house folks, thanks for the place to crash and the great party on Sat night, should have gone out with you guys instead of going to bed to go climbing the next morning! Oh well, live and learn. Also thanks to Maren (and your parents for a great dinner on Tuesday!) and Elizabeth for letting me crash on the couch in Oslo!
I hope that next winter Northern Alpine Guides will have me back as a guest guide so I can return and climb some fun stuff. Also a few other interesting things about Norway:
The Mirror Project - Martin's project to put some sunlight into Rjukan, check it out at www.solspeil.no, Nobelprize.org and a little bit of trivia, the paperclip, invented by Norwegian inventor Johan Vaaler in 1899.
About the photos: Hydnefossen at sunrise, Seth P1, the Italians, and the mirrow project.

Norway Post #1: Unbelievable!

The unthinkable happened, after 10 years of dreaming of a climbing trip to Norway, I arrived during the warmest winter in 100 years. Seth had emailed me 2 days before I arrived and asked if I was sure I still wanted to come. Thus began our "Audacity of hope tour". Grim is the only description of the next 10 days, warm temps - even hitting 9C - and continual rain. Upon arriving in Rjukan, the depression started to set in. There was very little ice and lots of climbers wondering how they could muscle in on 20 meter pitches of grade 3. Some mayhem ensued. Still we were of the "audacity" tour and took our tools for a walk, going to look at classics like Lipton - see post #2 for photos - and watched the water pour off the lip of where a curtain once hung.
Luckily we found something to do while it rained, guiding for Northern Alpine Guides. Super clients and a good way to ensure I didn't go mad in the rain. This past weekend we went to Hemsedal, which is a great ski town, stayed with some really fun people and brought back the hope as the temps dropped a bit - reaching -11C on Sunday morning, but wind and fresh snow prevented us from climbing Hynefossen, as spindrift and collapsing cornices kept us from anything too stupid. About the photos: the price of a bacon burger at the gas station - yes this is an expensive country, me two screwing a Rjukan WI 5(?), heading into the Upper gorge with clients, and lunch with utterly soaked and dyed hands. Too many emails to deal with now so will post more later.