Friday, April 24, 2009

K2 2009 Field Touring Alpine led by Fabrizio Zangrilli

I am very pleased to announce that I will be leading Field Touring Alpine's K2 Expedition this summer. For further information or to join the trek to base camp please email me at


Altitude: 8,611M/28,250ft Location: Karakorum, Pakistan

The K2 component of the expedition is by invitation only, with the application process being open likely only until the month of March. Later applications will be considered on a case by case basis. Thank you.




10 June - 14 August, 2009


BC services only USD$please call


Base camp support, helicopter, medical and approach support (with or without permit inclusion) is also available as a separate option for experienced (only) independent teams - please contact us for details.


All services Islamabad - Islamabad

Positions Open:

15 per trip

FTA and K2

This will be our 6th expedition to Broad Peak and second to K2 and will be led by a highly experienced team of western guides and local HAPs. We have extensive experience in the Karakorum, running more expeditions and treks here than any other operator in the world, and will be engaging the most sought after and qualified Pakistani HAPs. In 2006 we had a number of members reach to near the 8000m mark on K2 and gained significant knowledge of the mountain. We look forward to applying all that we learned to our second effort in 2009.

Why K2/Broad Peak with FTA?

No other operator has the recent experience or history that we do on Broad Peak, and our expeditions have proven her to be a good first time venue for aspiring 8000m alpinists, with reasonable summit rates if the weather is
clement. This program has been priced to give climbers an affordable opportunity to test their skills and endurance on arguably mountaineering’s greatest objective: K2. If you aspire to climb classic Himalayan 8,000ers, in a remote and stunning setting, and with quality back-up and expert leadership, then we invite your application for this once-in-a-lifetime 2009 expedition.

High Altitude Warning

During the ultra high altitude components of our 8000m expeditions (climbing legs above 7000m) the member accepts and fully understands that the level and quality of support and guidance is exponentially reduced the higher the member/team goes. Climbing on the world’s highest peaks is a potentially dangerous undertaking, and while we operate with safety as the highest priority, and have enjoyed a fatality free 14 year history in Pakistan, it must be understood by members that there are risks and dangers that neither leaders or members have any control over. Members need to be aware of these risks and accept their presence as being inherent to the pursuit of the world’s highest summits

The Cesen Route (SSE Spur) on K2

This season our first route preference if the conditions are good will be via the Cesen Route - the lesser climbed SSE spur first claimed by Alpinist Tomo Cesen. The Slovenian was climbing without a permit, so there was no publication about the new line and relatively little information has circulated about it in the years since.

The 4000 meter long Cesen route (also dubbed the ‘Basque route’ or ‘Spanish Route’), follows a spur, just on the right side of the South face, which leads to the shoulder at 7800m, where it joins the Abruzzi Spur route, above camp 3. It has been said that the route is technically slightly more demanding than the Abruzzi, but safer if the conditions are good.

Mark Sheen, a long time FTA member who was with us in 2006 on Broad Peak, last season climbed up the Cesen and then down the Abruzzi as a member of the Norit team. He did in fact on his summit push climb clear from BC to Camp 4 alone and in just 2 days in very good conditions. It is his opinion if the route presents the same or as close to as last season, then it is without a doubt the preferred option for this side of the mountain. He said “While it is marginally steeper in a few places, there was very very little avalanche danger, and just one spot that spat out a few rocks in the midday sun. There was also good camp-sites for up to 8 or so climbers”. He was adamant that if he were to return, it would be via the SSE spur.

A large image gallery on Mark’s ascent is being prepared for members of our 2009 expedition on the FTA site. If conditions don’t favor the Cesen on our arrival, the expedition will have the flexibility to alter routes.

Regardless of the route we will be on, the style of our climb will require that members are able to take an active part in preparing the route above C2 and carrying a share of the tent/stove/fuel loads.

Joining The Expedition & Further Information

If you are interested in joining our expedition we invite you to complete the form below and we will reply to you as soon as possible.

Please note the K2 component of the expedition is by invitation only, with the application process being open likely only until the month of March. Later applications will be considered on a case by case basis. Thank you.