Colorado Ice Climbing Conditions April 13: Hessie Chimney and Hidden Falls

On Saturday I was in RMNP and it was full on winter conditions, so much snow and cold. Sunday I was getting wet at Hessie Chimney with Jordan. Dave and his partner back off Hessie, while I did battle with the stien pulls on the crack that leads to the mixed thing on the left. Nobody had success, but we all had fun, very atmospheric with snow falling late in the afternoon. Today I was at Hidden Falls, and the ice was fat. Warm, with a bit of a facade to the ice, if you go be careful!

Sherpa Journeys invites you… to a celebration of Himalayan Culture

Hosted by:
Tibet’s Restaurant, Louisville, Colorado
Thursday, May 7, 2009
6:00 to 9:00 pm

Please join us for a celebration of authentic Himalayan food and culture. The evening focuses on the unique, diverse cultures of the high Himalaya and trekking in the Everest Region of Nepal. Special guests include Passang Lamu Sherpa, of the youngest women to climb Mt. Everest and 1st woman to teach climbing in Nepal, Lama Lhoppon Rechung, Tibetan Lama-Monk, and Tenzin Dhongyal, President of Colorado Tibetans Organization.

Evening Schedule:

6:00 Social: an excellent opportunity to mingle with local Sherpas, Nepalese and Tibetans -- including above mentioned special guests

6:30 Himalayan Buffet: Authentic, delicious, healthy Tibetan/Nepali food

7:00 Presentation: Overview of Nepalese, Tibetan and Sherpa Culture

7:30 Raffle: Win a Marmot sleeping bag & other giveaways

7:45 Guest speaker Tenzin Dhongyal, President of Colorado Tibetans Organization discussing “Perspective and Aspirations of Young Generation of Tibetans”

8:00 Lecture on Sherpa Culture by Kathleen Haggerty, the owner and president of Sherpa Journeys and an introduction to Tibetan Buddhism by special guest Lama Lhoppon Rechung of Tibet with artifacts from region.

9:00 You may stay as long as you like to visit and ask questions to our Himalayan friends about their culture and homeland until closing at 10pm.

$15 early registration (Pay on www.SherpaJourneys.com)
Or $20 at door
Includes dinner and soft drinks and chai (see next page for more info)


For more information, please call Kathleen at 303-469-1987




Buffet Dinner Includes: Chicken Curry, Biriyani (stir fried vegetables and rice) Saag (creamed spinach), Naan (flat bread), Tibetan noodles with vegetables, Dal (lentil soup) and kheer (rice pudding), and all you can drink chai (regular or decaf) or soft drinks. Juice and alcoholic beverages not included but may be ordered on a cash basis.

Sherpa Journeys, LLC. is a Colorado-based trekking company specializing in Nepal’s Everest Region. We support sustaining the Sherpa and other local cultures as well as tourism which is the lifeblood of Nepal. We guide with professionalism and responsibility and respect to the environment, the porters and local villagers. Our guides in Nepal have over 30 years of experience guiding in their homeland and are wonderful people to travel with since they love to show westerners the peaks and rivers and their unique way of life. There is something special about being surrounded by the majesty of the highest mountains in the world and being a part of their beautiful culture--even if only for a brief stay. This journey is truly a place to find your own, true spirit. We will unveil our fall trekking and retreat program in Nepal as well.

Tibet’s Restaurant opened October 2008 and is majority owned by Nepalese/Sherpas. The walls are filled with artifacts which are compliments of Tibet’s Gallery in Boulder. These articles are for sale and have price tags on them. Take Highway 36 to McCaslin Blvd and go North about ½ mile past Dillan Road on the left to 321 McCaslin Blvd. www.TibetsRestaurant.com. (303) 665-2557.

Tragic News: Piotr Morawski

Newsflash: Piotr Morawski lost on Dhaulagiri

(MountEverest.net/Madrid. Story updated 7:05 am CDT) Polish ace climber Piotr Morawski has perished on Dhaulagiri, local media have just reported...

Very sad news, Piotr was part of the group with Me, Peter Hamor, Dodo Kopold, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Daniel Bartsch, and David Gottler that tried to make a speed ascent of K2 via the Cesen in 2007. I did not know him well, but he was a very nice guy that was very strong in the mountains. My condolences to his family and friends.
Photo of Piotr on the Cesen, video clip of speed attempt - the team reached the shoulder and back down in 36 hours, 2007, by Fabrizio Zangrilli.

Colorado Ice Climbing Conditions April 03: Hessie Chimney, Nederland

Went back out to Hessie Chimney, Eldora, today. Snow was flying from early on and it was very atmospheric all day. Somebody had been up here since Tom and I were last here 4 days ago and today we met two guys scouting the route. Since the heavy snow in the afternoon on wednesday the chimney has filled in a bit and certainly has become a touch easier. The top of the first pitch was very wet and the top pitches (well both finishes) were drippy as well. It snowed most of the day while we were up there and the storm tonight will only make the ice come in fatter. Happy swinging. Email me if you know of any other fun ice/mixed that is in.

Colorado Ice Climbing Conditions March 31: Hessie Chimney, Nederland

It took a bit of work to get it done - three trips: to see if ice was in the chimney, then to see if it would hold more than one ascent, and then finally just doing it after figuring it had been cold enough to bond to the walls. There was alot of junk ice that needed clearing and the middle pillar (yesterday) was still not that solid (if this is your first M5 lead then buyer beware, it is not very physical but heady) and since the water had been running so much before the big dump of snow the lower cracks had iced up a bit. There is a fixed blue sling half way up a a few choice pins to clip. All in all a very fun route, the snow we are getting and this weeks forcasted cold temps will only make the route better. Enjoy and probably see you up there in the next couple of weeks.

Colorado Ice Climbing Conditions March 21 2009: Marthas, RMNP

Last weekend Jesse and I went to Rocky Mountain National Park, we were looking for something a bit more challenging but conditions were quite dry where we went so ended up taking a hike up Marthas. It was my first time and quite fun, although I hear there is usually loads more ice and snow - I imagine after this big dump of snow it will be great! None the less it was still worth doing, and great aerobic training for the upcoming seasons. This week I have been out at another great climb, a bit tougher - will post when I am done there.

Colorado Ice Climbing Conditions Feb 07 2009: All Mixed Up, Rocky Mountain National Park

Is there a trail to All Mixed Up? Well, I put one in on Saturday. It was alot of work, but somewhat of a good mental exercise. Hope to never do it again, as I was up to waist deep snow for a bit of it. All mixed up is a bit bony, and very sporty. If you are looking for a walk up ice climb you will be very unhappy when you arrive at the base, if you are looking for a slabby run out mixed climb with a fair amount of good frozen turf then you will be happy. Bring lots of rock gear and stubby screws. Have at it and have fun! The park is still wintry and very beautiful.

Colorado Ice Climbing Conditions Feb 05 2009: Wild Basin - Hidden Falls, The Dangler

Went up to Hidden Falls for the first time today. It was super, easy well packed trail and only one other party there. Did a bunch of laps on Hidden Falls, as many variations as possible and then went to work on the dangler, the left leaning seam to the right of Hidden Falls that goes to the roof. The dangler is very fun, except when you reach the ledge mid way, there is alot of loose rock and the flake above is very loose that I yarded on. Be Careful. Hidden Falls is given WI 4- in the book and the Dangler M7- WI 5 (but there was no ice and we didn't pull through the roof). Enjoy

Ice Climbing Climbing Conditions Colorado: Vail Feb 02

Photos from Vail, Colorado from Feb 2 2009, to see the Spiral Staircase area look a couple of posts earlier. The Fang is trying its best to form, Fatman and Robin look good, Amphibian is dry, Frigid Inseminator is kinda anaemic, the ice to the left looks good (see Photo) Rigid Designator is climbable but alot of cauliflower, so not great pro until you are at least half height.

"Too fast to live. Too young to die."

Photos: The Punk Life and Death of Sid Vicious

"Too fast to live. Too young to die."
Feb. 2 marks the 30th anniversary of the death of the notorious former Sex Pistol, punk rock's ultimate nihilistic guitarist.

http://www.time.com/time/photogallery/0,29307,1874741,00.html

Colorado Ice Climbing Conditions Feb 02 2009: Vail, Spiral Staircase Area

Went product testing (some killer new stuff that I recently received - more later) and ice climbing today, super fun to be slightly pumped and moving again. My rib is all healed it seems! Spiral Staircase is very stepped out, dry and steep on the left side (WI 3+/4-) and running water on the right side (WI 3). Secret Probation was thin at the step right at bolt 3. Thanks to Tom for the photos.

How to kill time in Kathmandu between trips

More images to come! Happy New Year.

Kathmandu International Mountain Film Festival

This is the press release from www.kimff.org

KIMFF from December 11-15, 2008

Kathmandu City, the cosmopolitan heart of the Himalayan region, is hosting the sixth edition of Kathmandu International Mountain Film Festival from December 11-15, 2008. The festival will screen some of the most recent and exciting films about mountains, mountain environment, mountain cultures and communities from various corners of the world. KIMFF is dedicated to exploring the diverse and complex ways in which human beings relate to mountains; the festival seeks to foster a better understanding of human experiences as well as of the social and cultural realities in the highlands of the world.

Kathmandu City, the cosmopolitan heart of the Himalayan region, is hosting the sixth edition of Kathmandu International Mountain Film Festival from December 11-15, 2008. The festival will screen some of the most recent and exciting films about mountains, mountain environment, mountain cultures and communities from various corners of the world. KIMFF is dedicated to exploring the diverse and complex ways in which human beings relate to mountains; the festival seeks to foster a better understanding of human experiences as well as of the social and cultural realities in the highlands of the world.About 50 films will be selected for KIMFF 2008. Filmmakers can choose whether or not to submit their films for competition. Around 15-20 films will be shortlisted to be viewed by the jury. Accepted films not shortlisted will be screened and still be eligible for the Audience Award.In the domestic arena, given the post-conflict, reconstruction-minded context of Nepal, the organizers will include films that capture this country’s social transition. Nepali filmmakers will have the opportunity to participate in ‘Nepal Panorama’, a separate showcase of Nepali entries. The Film Development Board of Nepal will award the best film in ‘Nepal Panorama’ with the objective of promoting Nepali films.The festival will also include discussion forums, on-demand screenings, guest lectures, exhibitions of books and photographs celebrating mountains, and workshops for aspiring filmmakers in the presence of filmmakers, film enthusiasts, critics, scholars, journalists, activists, and veteran mountaineers.

2009 Guiding Schedule

This is the list of destinations and expeditions for 2009

January/February
Khumbu Ice Climbing: Losar and other classic ice climbs

March 08 - April 08:
Nireka Peak, Khumbu Nepal

April 10 - June 10:
Makalu Expedition, Nepal

June 20 - July 18:
Nanga Parbat Expedition Support Trek

August 02 - Ausgust 20:
Nanga Parbat Expedition Support Trek

October 05 - November 05:
Pumori, Khumbu Nepal

November 10 - Dec 10:
Barun Valley, Sherpani Col, West Col and Amphu Lapcha, Khumbu Trek

Individual Trip decscriptions available on fabriziozangrilliguiding.blogspot.com, or please email fabrizio.zangrilli@gmail.com for pricing, itineraries or with any other questions.

Return to the Khumbu

Photo is of me at Camp 1 on the south ridge of Pumori, November 01, my 36th birthday, the day before the accident - thanks very much to John Miller for sending me the photo.

Also thanks to everybody for all the great emails I have received in the past 10 days, for those of you who asked what I am up to now, here it goes.

I am returning to the Khumbu tomorrow morning. I am going back for several reasons, the first being that I think it is important to say thank you personally to the people who helped out in the rescue, the Sherpa community does alot for many trekkers, climbers and tourists alike, as it just comes naturally to them, but I think that many of them are forgotten after the dust settles. Second I feel climbing climbing a little and doing some trail running, I lost alot of muscle mass and weight in general during the rescue and perhaps due to a bit of PTSD after.

Overall it will be a great way to spend December and collect my thoughts and try and get strong again. It will not be easy as I am down to under $600 cash as I spent over $1900 in cash in the Khumbu dealing with the rescue, petty to think about but - the cash is not insured as it is difficult to get receipts from porters and used oxygen salesmen in the middle of the night when so much is going on, even harder to get a receipt from the heli pilot I ended up bribing to get out of lukla- it does make life difficult. Oh well, another adventure.

Since I have been in Kathmandu I have had alot of support from Karnali Excursions, who have been great friends of mine for years and I am glad that by the end of today we will have a new schedule of trips for next year up worked out and will be posted on our website soon.

It is funny how you meet people while travelling and you can form a tight group quickly; they have been science teachers, UN workers, photographers, doctors, climbers, guides, journalists and humanitarians, all have been fascinating and intelligent. Good luck with your various projects.

Wish me luck in the Khumbu.

Pumori Pictures: Selected 2

Pumori Photos: Selected

Pumori Accident Details and thanks- not included in press

Nov 01: John, Corrine and myself climb to camp 1 (6050m) from BC (5100m) spend the night
Nov 02:
7:00am Corrine wakes up not feeling so well, so her and I decide to descend and John decides to stay in camp 1 until noon or so to dry sleeping bags and do other camp stuff.
8:30am Corrine and I start thew descent along the traverse out of C1 and then down the fixed ropes. Corrine is tired so I decide to thread her descender for her at all the anchors to ensure there is no avoidable accident.
9:15am A huge chunk of ice detaches from the wall above and falls 150m hitting Corrine, then just misses me - as I am only 10m below her on the fixed lines. I call Lakpa in BC to come up to ABC (5300m) to Assist with carrying Corrine down the scree.
9:45am I start the descent with Corrine's full weight hanging from my harness.
Approx 12:15am John catches up to us on the ropes and assists with the lowering/rappelling.
1:45pm We reach the Scree. John Descends to BC with a Radio so we could ask for more assistance from Porters arriving in BC, and then can come back up with medical kit and sat phone. Lakpa and I start the scary descent down the scree piggybacking Corrine.
3:45pm I call Karnali Excursions - our KTM agent - to order the helicopter for that day if possible in BC or in Gorak Shep for the next morning.
4:40pm arrive with John, Lakpa, 1 porter and a French Friend of Corrine's named Christof who had arrived in BC that day to visit.
5:00pm I depart to Gorak Shep to hire more porters help carry Corrine down.
6:45pm Corrine is in Gorak Shep.
7:00pm Doctors are found from Switzerland. Oxygen and then drugs are administered by , Dave, Christof, John and myself all night.
Nov 03
9:15 am Heli arrives in Gorak Shep.
1:00pm Corrine arrives in B & B Hospital Kathmandu with the assistance of Karnali Excursions and Dr. Pierre Soete from the French Embassy. Dave, John, Christof, Lakp and I arrive back in BC.
5:00pm I depart BC with insurance papers.
7:20pm I arrive in Pheriche, stay at White Yak Lodge for night.
Nov 04
9:00am I depart Pheriche
5:00pm I arrive Lukla
Nov 05
Wait in Lukla due to no fly weather
Nov 06
Pay to fly in MI17 heli back to Kathmnadu.

I would like very much to thank Dave Ohlson, John Miller, Christof, Lakpa, all the porters that were hired to carry, the guy who appeared out of nowhere in Gorak Shep to sell Oxygen, the lodge owners in Gorak Shep who offered support. Matt Fiorretti for being a great friend and asking people in Paradise Lodge during dinner to give up a seat for me on any plane the next day. The Czech couple who did offer to give up their seats. The Dutch trekkers who were very kind in Lukla. I would most like to thank Corrine Goyer, Vice Consul French Embassy Kathmandu, and Dennis Mallet, head of security French Embassy, and Dr. Pierre Soete, French Embassy, for everything they have done to ensure as swift of a recovery as for Corrine - and trust me it has been a remarkable display of understanding and compassion; Hira and Thanka from Karnali Excursions for doing way more than what was expected of them. Jessed - Corrine's boyfriend, for arriving in Kathmandu and giving alot of moral support, took alot of stress off of me, sorry my Spanish is so poor. If I have forgotten your name now I will remember, and give you the due thanks. Thanks again everybody!

Many people are asking about my plans. Thanks for asking by the way. When Corrine gets on the air ambulance back to France this weekend I will chill out for a day and then fly back to the Khumbu to personally thank many of the Sherpa community who helped with the rescue and provided me moral support. I just might solo something as well, who knows.

Everybody please wish Corrine the best of recoveries. I have recieved many emails from people I do not know congratulating me and saying thanks for the rescue, it is strange to get the emails, as I feel I did nothing out of the ordinary and only what a capable alpinist would have done. Thanks though, they are nice to receive.

Some Pumori photos to come soon.

Pumori Rescue

AFP News Briefs List High-altitude rescue drama in the Himalayas by Sam Taylor

An American expedition leader has described the dramatic 24-hour rescue of a French climber who suffered multiple fractures after being hit by a massive block of ice during a Himalayan climb in Nepal.
Corinne Favre, a specialist high-altitude skier and runner, was attempting to climb Pumori, a 7,161 metre (23,600 foot) peak close to Mount Everest when the accident occurred last Sunday morning.
"She got hit by a very large chunk of ice the size of an armchair. It must have been around 200 kilograms (440 pounds) and it hit her square in the chest," said expedition leader Fabrizio Zangrilli.
"I saw the ice when it was falling around 50 metres above us, I yelled but we were on a fixed rope so we couldn't get out of the way," the 36-year-old professional mountaineer told AFP.
According to Mounteverest.net, Favre was found at 5,700 metres (18,700 foot).
The impact of the ice block knocked Favre unconscious initially, but as Zangrilli was carrying her down the mountain, she came to, but she was in a bad way.
"At this point she is screaming and moaning. She can speak, she is saying, 'I am going to die, just let me sleep here,'" described Zangrilli.
"She protested because she was in a lot of pain. She wasn't really coherent but she could protest," he said, adding the impact of the ice slamming into the 37-year-old Favre had been "massive."
Zangrilli absailed and carried the badly injured and bleeding Frenchwoman for around four-and-a-half hours, before Sherpas and other team members came to his assistance.
"It was very hard physically having 60 kilograms hanging from your harness and having to haul a person across traverses that go uphill and then put them on your back," said Zangrilli, who arrived back in Kathmandu Thursday.
Once they got to a village at the foot of the mountain, a French doctor who was trekking in the region assisted with emergency treatment and Favre was evacuated by helicopter to Kathmandu on Monday.
Favre suffered multiple fractures and serious chest injures and is currently recovering from her ordeal in a hospital in Kathmandu.
"She is out of intensive care and is improving but we need to stabilise her more," said one of her doctors, Anip Joshi.
Lady Luck also played her part in saving Favre, said Zangrilli, from Boulder, Colorado.
"We were very lucky because the weather allowed us to get a chopper in on Monday. The day after the weather changed and no flights would have been possible," he said.
October and November offer prime conditions for mountaineers and trekkers in the stunning Himalayan range that forms Nepal's northern border with Tibet.
However, accidents and high-altitude sickness claim lives annually, and so far this autumn season six foreign trekkers and mountaineers -- including five French nationals -- have been killed in Nepal's mountains.

Pumori Expedition

In the Fall of 2007 Matt, Dave and I traveled to Nepal to document the remarkable recovery of Matt Fioretti from AplasticAnemia. A Himalayan climber and guide, he nearly died before he was able to undergo a bone marrow transplant in 2005. more here

While in Nepal we hiked into areas around Mt. Everest to see how Matt's new bone marrow handled adapting to the altitude. He felt great and he and I reached over 18,000 ft. on Dawa Peak. This October we will return to the Himalayas to climb Pumori (7,161 m.)

Dave Ohlon (www.daveohlson.com to see the trailer) has been filming Matt's story for over a year now and hopes to follow it all the way to the summit of Pumori.

Please follow our progress as we will post every so often. Photos courtesy of www.daveohlson.com

Wish us luck!