CAMP R&D Visit: Photos and Story

Last month I was very fortunate to make a visit to the R&D department at CAMP/Cassin in Premana Italy. I have long been interested in the development of climbing equipment and so was very lucky to spend time in 120 years of climbing history. My amazing hosts and the food made it even more memorable. Thanks very much for having me!





Arriving at the Lecco train station I was immediately reminded of the history and importance of alpinism in the area. We all know about the Lecco Spiders, but the tradition of very strong climbers lives on today.










Along with playing, tinkering and developing new toys, I was very pleased to get a full factory tour, seeing where and how some of the best and lightest gear is made. Ever wonder exactly how a crampon is made?





The history in the old part of the building is amazing and in the very modern and newly built R&D facility the future is even more amazing. I, for some reason, thought carbon fiber tools were modern and not 25 years old.









There is a wall of history leading to the main R&D facility, which every designer walks past daily. Along with pieces of climbing history that line the walls, photos of the current and recent best athletes that have worked with CAMP are on display. The news of Simone, Denis and Cory's success on Gasherbrum II had just been heard so everyone was happy! Cassin's pitons and crampons reminded me how incredible he was, to have done so much with the available technology.












The contrast between the factory and the R&D Dept is startling. Down stairs a constant pounding of machines, metal being bent, shaped and cut. Upstairs we sat at futuristic looking testing equipment, drop testing dummies - no, not me - and testing the hardness of metals. Computer programs that helped develop crampons confounded me. Everything was frankly so cool. One thing to note, everybody who worked on product was an athlete, some like Ottavio had put up numerous very hard sport routes, to Mateo who "is not a good rock climber at just 8a, won a mixed comp or two and climbed new A4 routes out of hellish caves...." OK. Important I think when gear needs to work well and keep you alive.









The fourth generation of the Codega family is taking CAMP/Cassin to new places, (yes you read that right, from great great grandfather to the current generation, it has stayed in the same family) far from what the founders could have imagined.




The problem with seeing toys that are not available is wanting them. For many reasons, in the past few years I have tried to live the Buddhist philosophy of not wanting, but that was all destroyed in a quick visit to Premana. Now I cannot wait until next winter when product ships.
Still, I am amazed that one building has created axes for the Italian military in 1920 and the curent generation of mixed climbers.

10 Day wrap up: Red Bull F1, ISPO, New Toys, and More Ski Touring

Too much ski touring lately. Sorry for the lack of words, but be sure there were alot of turns made instead.

The past ten days have been crazy. Went to the Red Bull Racing F1 HQ and got to drive the simulator. It is as real as it gets, the car sits on an elevated platform, with multiple hydraulics beneath. When you hit the rumble strips on the near 300 degree wrap around video screen at 200km the car jumps around - when you crash it feels like you are about to flip the thing. Amazing. After 20 laps I was soaked and Mark Webber's simulator suit needed some dry cleaning. What was even more amazing was the tour of the factory. Alot of money goes into making these machines. Alot.

Then immediately to ISPO, caught up with the guys at Marmot, Pictured is Brian and Mark - Brian makes everything and Mark is in charge of everything - not so official job descriptions I know, but it is what they do. Saw the new pieces I helped out with, and regretted not being sample size - I, like you, will have to wait until the product ships next autumn. Well worth the wait though, Marmot certainly has continued to listen to the team members and is delivering some amazing stuff, look out for the Baffin Hoody.

Spent alot of time with Antonio and Eddy at the CAMP/CASSIN booth - love the Xdream - no, not too strong of a term. There is alot more product I want to talk about, especially little (and oh so light) green Aliens. But will let the photos do the talking. ( Photo is from: http://slc-samurai.blogspot.com/2010/03/skimo-world-champs-gear-report.html )









Then immediately went ski touring in the Tatras, a little gem of a mountain range. It has taken me a bit of time to understand why it produced some of the best (if not the best?) alpinists of all time. But the reality of the ability to constantly train, since the days are not so long - the mountains are not so big- , and the ability to approach (on ski or not) from amazing alpine huts (well some of them are like hotels) built during the communist era make it very civilized. Never have I slept in such comfortable beds and devoured so much good food in the mountains at such reasonable prices.



This past weekend I saw part of the amazing mentoring system that happens in countries with such long and deep alpine traditions. The Polish Outdoor Group rented out most of the above hut and held a 3 day winter mountain training seminar. It was a basic introduction to the outdoors in winter, but covered everything and people got to play outdoors.











Luckily there was a bit of fresh snow and I too got to play outside.

Tomorrow I fly to another beautiful place...this time for a bit of R&D.....I will post form there. Happy Valentine's Day!