RMNP Conditions: Ice, Ski, Photo and Video

I have been out every day this past week either ice climbing or skiing, conditions are great right now. Dragontail has been skied a bunch the past couple of days, the fresh snow on the 23rd made all of the skiing in the area great, everyday we seem to be getting a light dusting that has made everything fun. Was up at Tyndal Glacier on the 24th, very wind blown at the top, but the ski down to Emerald lake was great.








Ice climbing at Hidden Falls today, Bryan and I had it all alone until we packed up at 3:30 when two motivated nice guys showed up. The bolted mixed (now dry) climb just to the right of the falls is stellar, very techy on the face. Alot of photo and video shooting has made the 7 days on tolerable. With no end in sight, as the forecast predicts a bit of snow and colder temps the next few days, I hope to have a good video representation of why RMNP is such great and varied place to climb and ski!

CAMP R&D Visit: Photos and Story

Last month I was very fortunate to make a visit to the R&D department at CAMP/Cassin in Premana Italy. I have long been interested in the development of climbing equipment and so was very lucky to spend time in 120 years of climbing history. My amazing hosts and the food made it even more memorable. Thanks very much for having me!





Arriving at the Lecco train station I was immediately reminded of the history and importance of alpinism in the area. We all know about the Lecco Spiders, but the tradition of very strong climbers lives on today.










Along with playing, tinkering and developing new toys, I was very pleased to get a full factory tour, seeing where and how some of the best and lightest gear is made. Ever wonder exactly how a crampon is made?





The history in the old part of the building is amazing and in the very modern and newly built R&D facility the future is even more amazing. I, for some reason, thought carbon fiber tools were modern and not 25 years old.









There is a wall of history leading to the main R&D facility, which every designer walks past daily. Along with pieces of climbing history that line the walls, photos of the current and recent best athletes that have worked with CAMP are on display. The news of Simone, Denis and Cory's success on Gasherbrum II had just been heard so everyone was happy! Cassin's pitons and crampons reminded me how incredible he was, to have done so much with the available technology.












The contrast between the factory and the R&D Dept is startling. Down stairs a constant pounding of machines, metal being bent, shaped and cut. Upstairs we sat at futuristic looking testing equipment, drop testing dummies - no, not me - and testing the hardness of metals. Computer programs that helped develop crampons confounded me. Everything was frankly so cool. One thing to note, everybody who worked on product was an athlete, some like Ottavio had put up numerous very hard sport routes, to Mateo who "is not a good rock climber at just 8a, won a mixed comp or two and climbed new A4 routes out of hellish caves...." OK. Important I think when gear needs to work well and keep you alive.









The fourth generation of the Codega family is taking CAMP/Cassin to new places, (yes you read that right, from great great grandfather to the current generation, it has stayed in the same family) far from what the founders could have imagined.




The problem with seeing toys that are not available is wanting them. For many reasons, in the past few years I have tried to live the Buddhist philosophy of not wanting, but that was all destroyed in a quick visit to Premana. Now I cannot wait until next winter when product ships.
Still, I am amazed that one building has created axes for the Italian military in 1920 and the curent generation of mixed climbers.

The BBC Interview: Man on a wire

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/programmes/world_news_america/9270359.stm

I thought Man on Wire was an amazing film and this is a very interesting interview for BBC with him, enjoy.

10 Day wrap up: Red Bull F1, ISPO, New Toys, and More Ski Touring

Too much ski touring lately. Sorry for the lack of words, but be sure there were alot of turns made instead.

The past ten days have been crazy. Went to the Red Bull Racing F1 HQ and got to drive the simulator. It is as real as it gets, the car sits on an elevated platform, with multiple hydraulics beneath. When you hit the rumble strips on the near 300 degree wrap around video screen at 200km the car jumps around - when you crash it feels like you are about to flip the thing. Amazing. After 20 laps I was soaked and Mark Webber's simulator suit needed some dry cleaning. What was even more amazing was the tour of the factory. Alot of money goes into making these machines. Alot.

Then immediately to ISPO, caught up with the guys at Marmot, Pictured is Brian and Mark - Brian makes everything and Mark is in charge of everything - not so official job descriptions I know, but it is what they do. Saw the new pieces I helped out with, and regretted not being sample size - I, like you, will have to wait until the product ships next autumn. Well worth the wait though, Marmot certainly has continued to listen to the team members and is delivering some amazing stuff, look out for the Baffin Hoody.

Spent alot of time with Antonio and Eddy at the CAMP/CASSIN booth - love the Xdream - no, not too strong of a term. There is alot more product I want to talk about, especially little (and oh so light) green Aliens. But will let the photos do the talking. ( Photo is from: http://slc-samurai.blogspot.com/2010/03/skimo-world-champs-gear-report.html )









Then immediately went ski touring in the Tatras, a little gem of a mountain range. It has taken me a bit of time to understand why it produced some of the best (if not the best?) alpinists of all time. But the reality of the ability to constantly train, since the days are not so long - the mountains are not so big- , and the ability to approach (on ski or not) from amazing alpine huts (well some of them are like hotels) built during the communist era make it very civilized. Never have I slept in such comfortable beds and devoured so much good food in the mountains at such reasonable prices.



This past weekend I saw part of the amazing mentoring system that happens in countries with such long and deep alpine traditions. The Polish Outdoor Group rented out most of the above hut and held a 3 day winter mountain training seminar. It was a basic introduction to the outdoors in winter, but covered everything and people got to play outdoors.











Luckily there was a bit of fresh snow and I too got to play outside.

Tomorrow I fly to another beautiful place...this time for a bit of R&D.....I will post form there. Happy Valentine's Day!

ski touring: the best training? and alot of fun

Lots of photos, words to follow. Video sound is poor, sorry, it was very very windy.

Red Bull Racing: F1 at its best!

More on this to come.

Welcome to the Tatras!

Conditions are variable where ever one travels, but in the Tatras they can really change. Old School climbing club books that essentially vouch for your ability in the mountains, elusive mountains, Yosemite National Park trained Park Rangers and home made grass protection all add to what should be an adventure. We will see, updates to follow!

Indoor drytool training - Schmoolz and Alpkit

Photo from http://schmoolz.com/blog/

I have been searching for a great tool to train indoors with for the mixed season. I have suffered many injuries from tools skating off plastic holds - and for several pre winter training seasons I took to wearing a hockey helmet to protect my teeth, nose and head. While everybody is going plice crazy I am too busy traveling to have a fixed plywood thing....thing because it is late and I could not come up with a better word.

I recently found two companies from the UK, Alpkit - producers of the Figfour, and Schmoolz - producers of the Schmoolz dry tool. They both have the same concept, a wooden handle with a rubber strap that loops over standard indoor climbing holds, any indoor climbing hold. It seems the UK is way ahead of us when it comes to organized indoor training, and has a competition series already going and both manufacturers have actively pursued climbing gyms to let members use them.

Here is a good article comparing the tools, and the websites for Alpkit and Schmoolz. I think somebody in North America should think about distributing these. In the mean time they ship to the US and Europe.

Jeff Lowe's Metanoia Documentary

This is a super cool project, I really hope that you donate and this becomes a reality.

http://www.kickstarter.com/profile/jefflowesmetanoia?

What is the film about?
Nearly 20 years ago Jeff Lowe made an amazing solo first ascent on Switzerland’s Eiger North Face - in winter - without the usual expansion bolts that climbers use for protection on steep, blank rock faces. Jon Krakauer was there on assignment for Men's Journal to photograph and document the climb. Jeff’s survival on the “impossible climb” was nothing short of miraculous. Very strong climbers have tried to repeat the climb… not one has succeeded. Now an extremely talented and accomplished Swiss climber wants to fulfill his own dream of climbing Jeff’s route.

Once again acclaimed author Jon Krakauer teams up with Jeff, this time to narrate this compelling biographical documentary about the life and climbs of one of the world’s greatest alpinists.

In this movie we will travel to some of the most beautiful places on earth and experience firsthand what it is like to be high up in the great ranges. We will learn what sort of spirit drives a man to risk his life repeatedly, as the transcendent moments are revealed that shaped his very soul.

The characteristics that made Jeff Lowe an extraordinary climber and visionary are the same characteristics that engender his graceful response to the mysterious neuro-degenerative process that has robbed him of his climbing life and landed him in a wheelchair.

What is it that makes a person able to embrace their circumstances, no matter how devastating, and continue to find joy in every day life, while others struggle endlessly, still despairing of their losses or simply giving up? >

Cameras for Expeditions Part 1

Many people ask me what camera to use on expeditions, for the last 5 years I have been shooting with a Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX2, and it was really perfect. Batteries lasted well, very wide lens for a point and shoot and easy to use. Many of my climbing partners are very happy with the Canon G10 or 11, but I have never used them. Finally I decided to upgrade this year to what I think is best described as a mini DSLR, the Sony NEX-5. There are a few competitors in the mini DSLR market, the Olympus version being the other best I think. I opted for the currently available package deal of the body with both fixed 16mm and 18-55mm lens (there is another lens up to 200mm but the price is too high and the wait too long - dare to dream), I bought via B&H Photo in NYC and as always was grateful for the best prices and service - I must say I had some trouble with other buying options, that are still not resolved.

The Sony NEX-5 is a massive upgrade with variable lenses and full HD video capabilities it can do everything I used to be able to do with the lumix - including a wider lens and what I only dreamed of being able to do with a DSLR (dreamed because I didn't have one). It is taking a bit of getting used to, hard to teach old mountain climbers new tricks I guess, but I am happy with what I have shot so far.

The top shot with the red clouds is from Ama Dablam BC this November, it is the last photo I took with the Lumix, it still takes great photos, the other (below) is the Palac Kultury i Nauki (Science and Culture Palace) in Warsaw, and is the first photo I took with the Sony NEX-5. Both were hand held, in low light - obviously one in lower light - but for just a quick attempt to capture an image they both did well. I am very happy, more samples to come.

RMNP Rando Ski

Europe is cold, and then warm, I shall be in the mountains in a few days in Austria, but I wanted to post a bit of video shot in RMNP when I was out skiing with my friend Brian. I had just returned from Nepal, and was still jet lagged (or perhaps these days I am just constantly jet lagged) and wanted badly to get out skiing. We had been out in some fun winds the previous days, but on this day we finally made some turns. In the video I talk a bit about some new clothes from Marmot, specifically the Trient and Varient Jacket and Protour Pant. More video to come from Europe!

"Plastic and Feathers!"

"Plastic and feathers, it is only plastic and feathers, there is no
difference anymore between products and companies!" a very
enthusiastic shop owner I visited last week decried. I stood there and
nodded my head, what else could I do, he was giving me a great deal on
some product. I left the shop wondering is it all just plastic and
feathers? As soon as I pulled up to the door at the 'home for wayward
climbers' where UPS drops off samples and prototypes from the
companies I test for I was shocked to see what was definitely not just
feathers and plastic. At one of the trade shows last year, Marmot sat
a good number of the athlete team down for a chat to see what products
we would really like to use and have. While some of us were a bit
skeptical that any product would appear from the meeting, I had
supreme confidence (read I was the head of skeptics), and there a few
months later, on the floor, lay several huge boxes full of products.
Plastic and feathers? Yes, but plastic and feathers with alot of
thought, engineering and honestly feedback from the team. Amazing I
thought, they are listening.
Delayed and cancelled flights have given me the time to sit and relax
- if you find sitting at the airport for 12 hours before they tell you
that you cannot fly to your destination for another 4 days relaxing -
and meet some very interesting people. Only in the Denver airport can
you meet a Polish diplomat, an IT person for a badminton company,
professional free-skiers and their camera crew, another guy from
boulder who skis and climbs and an irate Hindu holding British
Airlines responsible for the phenomenal snowfall and airport closures
across Europe.

I will be skiing, climbing, guiding, rando-racing and recovering from
a long himalayan year for the next couple of months, many photos,
videos and blogs to come!

Cholatse Spring 2011 Expedition

Join me on Cholatse (6440m) in Nepal this coming spring! This commercial expedition in the heart of the Khumbu region in Nepal is 30 days long, from March 15 to April 13. The route - the right hand skyline in the photo - combines glacier travel, rock, snow and ice. Cholatse has been called the quiet Ama Dablam, and offers perhaps even more spectacular views from the summit. For more information please see ganeshadventures.com/cholatse-6440m/ and for any questions please email info@ganeshadventures.com.

I look forward to climbing with you this spring!

Cosmic

Ski season is in full swing here in Colorado, while I have been rando skiing (ski touring) alot in RMNP many people have been getting after what seems to be the most fun you can have in the mountains - the Colorado Ski Mountaineering Cup. I had lunch with the promoter yesterday, Pete Swenson, who got me really psyched for some of the races - who also gave me a great deal with some Dynafit Skis (dynafit.us) and Bindings( with the help of Ian, Drew, Sarah and Chris at the office). I am really psyched as I am now running a pair of the Dynafit World Cup Carbon Race Skis with Low Tech Lite Binding, and a pair of Broad Peaks with TLT Vertical ST (I like these as i have a range of boots from light racing to high altitude guiding that I can use with them), combined with my Scarpa F1 Race (www.scarpa.com) boots and all of the race specific gloves, helmet, and backpack from CAMP (camp-usa.com) - yikes, it seems my only excuse is not enough training. Oh well, I have been saying alot lately that rando skiing is the most fun you can have in the mountains, hands down - saying it ALOT. To see photos from the race this past weekend and to see a bunch of tech tips on rando and racing check out http://www.ussma.org/cosmic/.

COSMIC RACE SCHEDULE RACE DATE LOCATION CS Irwin Lodge Rando Race 12/11/2010 CS Irwin Lodge The Heathen Challenge 01/15/2011 Sunlight Mountain, CO CAMP Ski Mountaineering Race at Crested Butte 01/29/2011 Crested Butte, CO COSMIC Sprint Race and SIA Uphill/Downhill Challenge 01/31/2011 Winter Park Ski Resort /SIA On-Snow Demo Race the Divide 02/13/2011 Monarch Mountain, CO Winter Wild 03/05/2011 Aspen, CO The Five Peaks 04/09/2011 Breckenridge, CO San Juans Rando 04/23/2011 San Juans Mts, CO Marmot Grind 04/30/2011 Arapahoe Basin, CO More information available at: http://www.ussma.org/cosmic/

More Ama Dablam and Island Peak Photos

Our group was very strong and motivated, luckily we managed to pick very good summit days for both Ama Dablam and Island Peak. Top: Michael and Roger lead the team on the way to Island Peak Summit. Second: Ruud just below the summit ridge of Island Peak. Third: View over the khumbu at sunrise at 6100m, with the shadow of Everest cast over the horizon. Bottom: Sunset over the Khumbu.

Summit Morning on Island Peak

Matching crowns: Cho Oyu and Ama Dablam

It is very interesting to note the two crowns, top Cho Oyu, bottom Ama Dablam - both at almost the same altitudes (6400m) - at almost the same time of year, at the same aspects, same height - 1 meter. The shapes are beautiful, but the consequences can be deadly.

Ama Dablam and Island Peak Summits!

The photos are from this November in the Khumbu Valley. I had a really great group for both Island Peak and Ama Dablam. We were very lucky I was able to call upon some personal contacts for a great forecast that let us sneak up and down with relatively low (30K) winds. The days on either side of the 26th - our Ama Dablam summit day - were very windy; they were far from ideal. I will post some pictures of the crowns from Cho Oyu and Ama Dablam in the coming days, they look amazingly similar. Panda Power!

Ama Dablam

Hello from Ama Dablam! Well actually Pangboche - I ran down to town as there is fast internet in a lodge there.
 We made it to base camp in great condition, everyone is feeling fit in the group. Today was a much deserved rest day, and a bit of packing, as tomorrow we head off to Island peak for a few days to acclimatize before climbing Ama Dablam.
Many teams have been topping out the past few days and base camp is clearing out nicely, when we return from Island Peak there should only be a couple of teams remaining. There is talk of a bit of bad weather coming in but it should not derail any of our plans.
I will report back shortly, thanks for following along.

Ama Dablam Helicopter Crash Update

The latest news is the helicopter crashed on the north side of the mountain attempting to rescue climbers on that side of the mountain. News is still sketchy, and very much third hand, but wanted to put people at ease who new people on the Normal (SW Ridge) route.