Brotherhood of the Mohawk

Andreas Spak, (www.andreasspak.com) 31 years old, from Sweden originally, now living in Rjukan is one of the main proponents of the big ice in Norway and sometimes crazy world of underground ice in Sweden. On my recent trip to Norway I was lucky enough to spend time hanging out and being employed by Andreas’ company (co owned with Seth Hobby) Northern Alpine Guides (www.northernalpineguides.com), discovering that we had similar tastes in music and attitudes towards the futility of climbing.

Andreas is a big believer, in an ego driven community, that nothing is special about a good climber, “it just means they practiced more”, and that paragliding – his new passion – is way more fun. Outspoken about, well, a lot of things climbing and steadfast about how climbers are not true athletes, forgoing serious training to just hang out and be seen as a part of a community, and that all semipro climbers should just get an office job. Andreas has climbed the hardest and longest ice climbs currently done in Norway, explored the very old and scary underground ice in Sweden and partnered some of the best known climbers anywhere. I asked Andreas a few questions, promising him fame as the first person to be interviewed in my new blog series: Climbers I wish I could Be: Upclose and Unpersonal. Sounds official huh? Let's hope he is joking about the last question! Photos of Andreas courtesy of www.andreasspak.com and me with Uli Biaho behind taken June 2007 Karakoram.

1.You grew up in Sweden and moved to Norway because of the climbing, what was so special about climbing for you?

A) Good question, don't know actually. I started when I was 16 I think, but quickly found out that Sweden is not a suitable country for ice climbing (this was before I knew about the ice mines), so decided to move to a location where I could climb every day.

2.What have been the two best days of ice climbing for you?

A) Tough one. Hmm, I guess the two first days of our ice mine trip (though we didn't actually climb those days) because of the amazing scenery and excitement of being at an extremely cool place.

3. Why do you enjoy paragliding to ice climbing more right now?

A) I just recently started paragliding and every time I go out flying I learn a lot. When you do something for the first time, or when you're at a starting fase of something, you get a different (call it innocent, humble, better?) view of it, than the expert have. Being a beginner is cool, no matter what you do, and it's inspiring.

Ice climbing for me now is more about finding cool places to climb and hanging out with friends. I still have a few really really cool projects on ice here in Norway, wild stuff that is rarely in condition. Waiting for it...

4. You recently traveled to the Paragliding World Championships in Mexico, did you take part, was there a difference in the community, Climbers vs. paragliders?

A) It actually was a pre world cup and I didn't participate in the comps. Paragliding is a more complex activity then climbing I'd say. Not necessarily more difficult or more dangerous, just harder to figure things out, resulting in a less steep learning curve (if done safely that is). Being down there in Mexico, hanging out with some of the best pilots in the world, was extremely educational.

The most significant difference I noticed, between climbers and pilots, was fitness. Paragliding can be a very physical sport, but doesn't have to be...

5. Was ice climbing in a cave the weirdest thing you have done, in climbing?

A) It wasn't caves, but old iron mines. Without doubt the coolest thing I've done with ice tools. We could have gone to the west coast of Norway again, or put up some mixed route in Canada, but that would have been repeating what I've been doing for years. It would have been just another route, just another piece of vertical ice or steep rock. In the ice mines we found all the ice any climber in the world can wish for, in an extremely cool environment.

6. Who have been your best partners and why?

A) My wife, for obvious reasons, but she doesn't climb much anymore. I like climbing with friends of course, but on the other hand, I've met most of my friends (if not all of them) through climbing or related activities such as drinking beer.

7. Your Punk band, Misconduct, is it still going? What instrument do you play? Is there a website for people to check it out? What music are you listening to now?

A) I played in many different bands before I got obsessed by climbing (way back). My sister's boyfriend Fredrik AKA “Fred Riot” Olsson (Sweden) started one of the first Straight Edge Hardcore (call it punk if you wish) bands in Sweden, named Misconduct (www.misconduct.nu). I've been touring with them for a few years, playing guitar, but because I live in a different country and my sport-related, healthy activities takes up most of my time now, I don't play very frequently anymore. I'm more of a guest artist these days.

I listen to a lot of stuff, most recent download was some albums by the jazz bass player Jaco Pastorius. Mostly I listen to old school punk and HC, like “Sick of it All”, “Minor Threat”, “Gorilla Biscuits”, “Youth of Today”, that stuff.

8. Does “Punk” and all of its “anarchistic youth energy” influence your climbing?

A) Punk is a way of life, and attitude. I don't think you have to be a Black Flag fan with shaved head to have that attitude, but it helps. To me, climbing is all about freedom. I want a world with less rules and regulations, less methods for how to do things.

9. What do you think is the future of ice climbing in Norway? Do you think the sport climbers that dominate the comp scene will have the balls to step up to the plate and climb the biggest and scariest stuff?

A) Personally I think ice climbing as a comp sport is dead boring. They have been giving the Ice World Cup a good try now for the last 5 years or so, trying to prove who's the best ice climber (yeah right), but to me it doesn't look like it's going to survive for much longer. I have never fully understood the urge that some people have to institutionalize climbing, having federations regulating it, all that bullshit. The climbers that will push harder in the future, in Norway and other places, will be the ones that have the strongest motivation, like it always has been.

10. Will you give me a job at Northern Alpine Guides next winter so I can get a chance to live and climb some cool ice in Norway?

A) We want the best guys, so you're welcome on the team Mr Zangrilli!

12. Any question you wished I asked?

A) Yes, as a matter of fact there is. “Mr. Spak, what is your contribution to the climbing community?”

A) Being a computer programmer, I have for long seen the need for a more sophisticated and structured way to get rid of stupid route names. The idea is to give every new route a 10 digit hexadecimal code as the name of the route. For example, 84993a9cce. It would also be convenient to add the climbers that did the first ascent to that code, so every climber should be registered at UIAA with a personal id, for example 1004300702. It should also include stuff like grade, pitches and location

An example:

84993a9cce (route name)

1004300702 (climber id)

5 (grade, skipped the WI because it's not a hex)

3 (# of pitches)

65949939302333 (location, N and W skipped in UTM format)

So, a future route name could be something like this:

84993a9cce10043007025365949939302333

Norway Post #2: Hydnesfossen, The Mirror Project, Nobel & The Paper Clip

I did manage to see some impressive ice in Norway as the temps began to drop the last couple of days I was there, but conditions remained miserable. Hydnefossen in a WI5/6, depending on the line you take, when in good conditions and a WI horror show when not psyched to deal with bullet hard ice in -11C temps. Seth and I went up to it on Sunday with strong winds blowing snow over the cornice, then a bit of the cornice broke free. We tucked tails and ran away. The next day we returned and found a trio of Italians had rested the day before (smart) and had utilized our trail from the day before and were having a very frustrating time on the brittle ice. We suited up and Seth started up the first pitch, unlike the Italians we were not so desperate to climb ice, and after a half rope length Seth rapped off, our turn to be smart. The Italians might still be there is was such slow going, but hats off to them for the tenacity.
I enjoyed Norway so much, and am very grateful to a few people, first Seth Hobby, great to tour around with him, if you are looking for a North West(US), Nepal, Alaska or Norway guide look him up. Andreas Spak, Seth's Partner at Northern Alpine Guides (northernalpine.com) based in Rjukan, thanks so much for the hospitality (Scotch) and the fun evenings out and at his and Tonia's flat. Martin and Amel and the kids, thanks so much for letting me stay!!! The Hemsedal house folks, thanks for the place to crash and the great party on Sat night, should have gone out with you guys instead of going to bed to go climbing the next morning! Oh well, live and learn. Also thanks to Maren (and your parents for a great dinner on Tuesday!) and Elizabeth for letting me crash on the couch in Oslo!
I hope that next winter Northern Alpine Guides will have me back as a guest guide so I can return and climb some fun stuff. Also a few other interesting things about Norway:
The Mirror Project - Martin's project to put some sunlight into Rjukan, check it out at www.solspeil.no, Nobelprize.org and a little bit of trivia, the paperclip, invented by Norwegian inventor Johan Vaaler in 1899.
About the photos: Hydnefossen at sunrise, Seth P1, the Italians, and the mirrow project.

Norway Post #1: Unbelievable!

The unthinkable happened, after 10 years of dreaming of a climbing trip to Norway, I arrived during the warmest winter in 100 years. Seth had emailed me 2 days before I arrived and asked if I was sure I still wanted to come. Thus began our "Audacity of hope tour". Grim is the only description of the next 10 days, warm temps - even hitting 9C - and continual rain. Upon arriving in Rjukan, the depression started to set in. There was very little ice and lots of climbers wondering how they could muscle in on 20 meter pitches of grade 3. Some mayhem ensued. Still we were of the "audacity" tour and took our tools for a walk, going to look at classics like Lipton - see post #2 for photos - and watched the water pour off the lip of where a curtain once hung.
Luckily we found something to do while it rained, guiding for Northern Alpine Guides. Super clients and a good way to ensure I didn't go mad in the rain. This past weekend we went to Hemsedal, which is a great ski town, stayed with some really fun people and brought back the hope as the temps dropped a bit - reaching -11C on Sunday morning, but wind and fresh snow prevented us from climbing Hynefossen, as spindrift and collapsing cornices kept us from anything too stupid. About the photos: the price of a bacon burger at the gas station - yes this is an expensive country, me two screwing a Rjukan WI 5(?), heading into the Upper gorge with clients, and lunch with utterly soaked and dyed hands. Too many emails to deal with now so will post more later.

Lambada WI6 50m: Anderle The Rope Gun

Yesterday Aljaz said, "OK, let's go to Lambada." OK. I was tired from a few too many days in the cold, but climbs like this don't hang around forever, so if they are doable, you go. We arrived at the parking lot at noon and were at the base of Lambada forty five minutes later. What an amazing pillar. It fully reminds you of why ice climbing is so special, playing on these architectural anomalies is way physical and heady. Aljaz said, "Well, if it goes well, I will lead it and then rap it and pull the screws and then you lead it, you know, if it goes well." "OK." 3 Screws and 50 meters of super delicate and controlled climbing later The Rope Gun yells "Off belay". And then raps down. All of his drytooling pays off, he is able to hang, shake out and maintain body position and total mental control on junk ice and made the overhanging lip and the middle of the pillar look so easy. The Rope Gun. I took my turn to lead Lambada, and two meters later I knew I was out of my element, I was psyched out, I was pumped and I down climbed. It was the right decision for me, health care or not, I don't need the hassle of broken limbs. Luckily there is a fairly easy way around to the top and a few minutes later I had rigged a top rope, which sure enough made it fun and possible for laps. Great climb, I hope it is still standing when I get back from Norway so I can get my revenge. About the photos, Lambada with the sun dropping - wwww.anderle.info, Aljaz making easy work of Lambada, the hollow looking pillar, and me rapping off the top - www.anderle.info. If you want to use Aljaz as a photographer or hire him to put the rope up for you, I am sure he wouldn't mind if you contacted him via his website. A day of rest for me and then I fly to Norway on Wednesday.

Kozorogova Smer III+ M5 500m UIAA 4

Managed to get out of bed, just barely, after yesterday's climb in the super cold. Luckily when we got to the parking lot today, at 10am -alpine start enough for me, it was only -8C, so it had warmed up from yesterday. After a casual 45 minute approach we started up Kozorogova Smer. Without a doubt we were the first of the season to climb it, there was evidence that someone backed off the first pitch, which was a bit psychological (35m of M5 without gear), and so was the 2nd, 4th and 6th, as it turned out. The rock was just covered with dry sugar snow. I dinged up my picks pretty good continually swinging into what I thought was ice, but turned out to be this airated junk. Oh well, 500m later we had a great walk across the summit ridge with stunning views. Hope I get to rest tomorrow, but also really hope that Aljaz calls to say "lets' go to Lambada!" About the photos: Top is Begunjska with Kozorogova being the left hand big gully, Irena topping out on P1, the second "crux" pitch, and me with the sunset on the top. As usual you can click on the images to view larger versions.

Tech Tip: Dress For Success Part 2 Putting clothes back on.

I always wear my Patagonia R1 Hoody - the new ones have more stretch and I bet are the bomb!- as my base layer -then another R1 Shirt, then a super dynamic Power Shield Shirt, then depending on the temps, my Arcteryx Hoody - which is my favorite piece I own and then a light shell. Here I am wearing the super light Patagonia shell, forgot the name, but weighs next to nothing, but if it is wet I have a Gore Tex Pro Shell top that is so light and breathable it really has made me rethink soft vs hard shell. On my legs I wear two layers of mid weight underwear, then a Gore Tex Pro Shell. It is so light, has zippers up the legs so I can vent, but honestly they breathe so well I never remember to unzip the legs. The temps reached -20C today with wind chill and I stayed warm with this system. Remember, base layers should be form fitting, to wick moisture away from the body. I like my most insulated layer a bit roomy to trap alot of warm air under it. Hope you stay warm next time you are out. Any question or suggestions please email me. fabrizio.zangrilli@gmail.com

Tech Tip: Dress For Success Part 1 Undressing in the cold!

Dressing for success, it is key, I have found that the best system is to wear a warm base layer, a very light shell, then a fleece hoody for the approaches here in Slovenia. When I get to the base of a climb I quickly undress and change into dry layers that I carried, then place the wet original base layer over those two dry layers - assuming it is very cold, then put the hoody and shell on. It works great, today we approached for 1 hour 20 min, arriving to the base of the wall in -10C degrees and blowing , but once I put my dry layers on I was warm all day! On my legs I am wearing two layers of midweight long underwear plus my custom leg warmers - see earlier blog for info on how to make them.

Terra Incognita III/4 200m 85 Degrees

Went to Veliki VRH today and after an aborted attempt to climb Be-Ro, III4, UIAA 5, 80 degrees, we climbed Terra Incognita. It was about -10C at the base of the wall and alot, alot, colder at the top, with blowing winds. Super fun climb, in great condition. Well worth doing!

Tamar Ice Climbs

Went to look at Lambada today, pure 6, if not+, and saw that it is very close to being climbable, perhaps later this weekend? Then, Matej and I drove another twenty minutes to Tamar. Sort of an amusing start to the day. We drove into Triglav National Park, on a closed road, there were many children along the road - another answer to why Slovenians are the best, when they are kids they are brought out into the mountains to ski and sled for a week to help foster an appreciation for the mountains - and proceeded to get stuck in the snow. The kids soon caught up to us and helped push the car out of the ditch, then we got a start to the day, first by removing the license plates so nobody could give us a ticket. Climbed Centralni Slap, WI4+, 120m, 90 degree crux, then soloed Desni Slap, WI4, 50m, 90 degrees. Mataj and I decided to opt to try our luck with driving out of the Park then, even though were a couple of more climbs to be done, obviously first replacing the license plates. Super nice area, short approach - if you drive, otherwise expect an hour to hour and a half of walking each way, 15 minutes only with the drive. About the photos, the pure ice one is Centralni Slap at Tamar ,and the beautiful pillar is Lambada.

Jezersko Ice

I had a great day out with Aljaz Anderle (sponsored by Mammut, Petzl, and Addidas Eyewear) who is one of Slovenia's best mixed and ice climbers - if you have time check out www.anderle.info - at Jezersko, we managed to climb Spodnji Ledinski WI 5, 140m, 90 Degree crux and Zgornji Ledinski WI 4+ 60m 85 degree crux (upper and lower Ledinski is the translation). They have a slog in between them though, about 150m of up hill slogging. We then raped one pitch and down climbed a snow slope to the bottom, picked up our pack and hiked about half an hour to reach Vikijeva Sveca WI 5, 150m, 90 degree crux, climbed it, roping up for 40meters, then traversed about 300m to the top of Sinji Slap WI 3, 150m, 85 degree crux, and went down that. These are all of the obvious and major ice climbs at Jezersko, it is a super day out, if you are ever in the area I really recommend it. We started climbing at 9am and at a somewhat casual pace, were drinking beer at 4:20pm. About the Photos: Top: the 1000+m wall of Jezersko, Next: Aljaz leading the first roped pitch of the day, some of the slogging, me leading upper Leinski, the nice looking ice is Vikijeva Sveca

Kamnolom M5+R, UIAA 5+, A1, 80 degree crux on Begunjska Vrtaca

What a super day on Kamnolom - by the way the name translates to the Crap Red Rock Chimney. It's name did not disappoint, but still it was great, real heady climbing, with not very much gear, very much like Birdbrain in Ouray. I am still amazed after many routes now on limestone just how technical it is, you think a pitch is going to be a cruise and then you are fully engaged in a M5+ struggle, very balancey, with 20 gear-less meters below you. I have introduced the idea of bringing cams and nuts on routes instead of just a few pins, Martin my usual partner of late, seems amused, but is seeing the benefits of the BD C3s, we are getting alot of pretty good placements with them - if you are coming winter mixed climbing here, bring a full set of cams you will be surprised when big and small cracks pop up.

Martin Lead the first pitch, which was pretty dry and he ended up just taking his gloves off and alternate between swinging tools and rock climbing, I managed to save my hands by drytooling it, but everything is fun on a top rope. The second pitch, which I lead, was a full 45m of delicate and balancey climbing, before heading up Martin said" be delicate", I guess he is getting used to me bashing everything into submission, not possible with this pitch, and an hour later I managed to pull through the roof and set up a belay. Pitch 3, Martin's again, was a simple - however very dry and brittle ice- pitch. Then Pitch 4, mine again, was the A1 pitch, I managed to come within a meter of freeing it, but a foothold broke - luckily with a fixed pin at my waist - and since I had taken on the rope already just pulled up on it and committed to the mixed climbing above, very fun. We then unroped and climbed the rest of the gully, on snow and one interesting ice step. Super fun day, after sitting around for the past few days waiting for conditions to clear up.

All photos are of Martin starting P1, more to come.

Interesting Article by Nick Bullock

The link takes you to a very interesting article by Nick Bullock posted on UKclimbing.com, about the state of British alpinism - these boys are killing it. It has has some interesting history, well worth the read, http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=765, also check out Nick Bullock's blog, http://nickbullock.blogware.com/blog.
Off to the drytool cave.

The Best Alpine Tool: Cobra

I have been using the new Cobra since last spring when I went to the south (and still unclimbed - good luck Craig and Brad this spring!) face of Logan with Jack Tackle and Jay Smith. I have found it easy enough to pound pins, great for climbing mixed, snow or ice pitches, great for plunging the tool and also think the greatest feature of the tool is the shape. Perfectly balanced, but also I like the smaller grip at the bottom of the tool and in the "matching" position. I have since taken the tools to Pakistan, Nepal and am now climbing with them in Slovenia and am psyched to go to Norway to climb big ice with them. They are so good you can break the team Eiger North Face speed ascent record - see Alpinist.com for the story and photo of Simon Anthamatten -and his Cobras- and partner Roger Schali. Also see my previous post on pick modifications for alpine climbing.

Interesting Article by Raphael Slawinski

This link brings you to an interesting article by Raphael Slawinski about mixed climbing, the history and influences it has had in the mountains. Good reading. Originally appeared in the AAJ.
http://sportandmixedclimbing.com/mixed_issues/mixed_article.htm

Norway here I come!!

Well, thanks to the generosity of Matt at Four Winds Himalayan Guiding and Trekking, www.himalayahigh.com (website under re-construction) I am going to Norway for 2 weeks on Feb 20th to hook up with my friend Seth Hobby. Seth had sent me some photos from Rjukon, where he is based as a guide in the winter these days, and a few other places that just looked spectacular. The photo in the blog is stolen from Will Gadd's great website, www.gravsports.com from one of his trips to Norway. He had it in a report of some new routes he did, here is the link http://www.gravsports.com/Gadfly%20Pages/Gaddfly20054.htm, and then showed this photo as further routes that needed to be climbed. Holy cow, look at those monsters. So I am finally going to where I have dreamed and read about for so long!! I am so psyched. Hope Seth can lead all the scary pitches. Time to sharpen tools!

The Best Ice Tool: Petzl Nomic

I have used many tools, and firmly believe that the Nomic is the best tool for ice and mixed climbing if you had to only buy one tool for everything. It has become easy enough to modify to put a hammer on them - or do as some of my partners do, carry a small hammer for pounding pins - works better in any case. Other friends of mine are chopping and drilling ice picks to fit them as well. They are light and dont have much pick shift when matching onto the upper grip. Wish I owned a pair. Check them out, www.petzl.com Lower picture is of Billy on Hydrophobia, Canada last March with warmer hands than mine that day.

The Best Stove: JetBoil

The best stove system for the mountains these days is the 1.5L Jetboil pot rigged with the hanging kit. It is the fastest, lightest and most efficient. It has accompanied me on every trip from my early - too early in the end of March - trip to the Ruth in 2004 to my one day attempt on K2 in 2007 to Kwangde this year. Check it out. www.jetboil.com The photo below is one that Billy took in 2005 on the south face of K2 during one of the nights we spent on the wall pushing a new route, only to be turned back by strong winds. Super comfy and warm too!

Raining and Snowing: Dropping the heel

It is amazing how I can still be so weak. Yesterday I went out to the drytool cave with Aljaz Anderle and felt like a sick kitten. Aljaz said he felt weak as well (everything is relative keep in mind), that perhaps it was a high gravity day or perhaps the rain was getting us down, then he climbed up and down his M9 warmup, then after my failed attempt to lead - 2nd time on it - a very steep and pumpy M8 as my warm up, because the rain was pouring onto the vertical M7 that I would normally warm up on - he climbed the M10, which he then did laps on, going up and down. So I can see how he was having a bad day. The drytool cave was established in 2000/01 and for sure he knows all the moves, but the limestone changes all the time, so still keeps it interesting. One thing I have always said about mixed climbing is how it is very dependent on the right gear. Good luck climbing M9 at the cave with a pair of X15s - good movie idea for WG? - and was psyched I got to try a pair of prototype tools that Aljaz had. The right tools and crampons make all the difference in this sport. One question for crampon makers, why don't you make the front points steep enough, even if it is slightly overhanging that makes all the difference in the world, then for people who are just beginning steep ice it would make it easier for them as well as they don't drop their heels anyway. Put me on the payroll. Photo is of the draws dangling at the lip of the cave on a rainy day.

Blogs & Sites I look at Sometimes: in no particular order

I will update this list as I find more interesting ones.
Nick Bolluck: nickbullock.blogware.com/blog - wholy crap this guy gets after it, my new hero
Alpinist: alpinist.com
Zoe Hart: alpineprincess.blogspot.com
Will Gadd: gravsports.blogspot.com
Dougald Macdonald: themountainworld.blogspot.com
GNA: grivelnorthamerica.com
Cilogear: blog.cilogear.com
Patagonia: thecleanestline.com
Pavle Kozjek: pkozjek.blogspot.com - no I don't understand it either, pictures are worth...
Scarpa: Scarpa.com
Raphael Slawinski: members.shaw.ca/rapheal2/
Petzl-Charlet: petzl-charlet.com
Ice conditions CO: iceclimbingcolorado.com
Ice conditions Slovenia: ad-pecjak.si/ice/conditions.htm
M9ice: m9ice.com
Aljaz Anderle: anderle.info

Net soloing, the video

www.downstreammedia.net/TheRangeLife/Video/mattnet.mov takes you to a video of the much talked about Squamish climber Matt Maddaloni's attempt to solo .13a with a fishing net strung up between some trees to catch him. Impressive amount of effort for such a goofy thing really. Looks mighty close to bouncing over the edge in my opinion. It is Friday, and drizzly in Slovenia, what else is there to do but troll around on the internet and see what people are up to. I got this by looking at Dougald Macdonald's blog, themountainworld.blogspot.com. I will post a list of blogs I check out soon enough.