Wednesday, September 09, 2009

K2 Broad Peak and Latok Photo Albums 2












This is a view I had alot of, a pilot from the "Fearless Five" navigating with a map that any tourist could buy of the glaciers and mountains of northern Pakistan.












Me looking out of the window of a Marmot Alpinist Tent in C3 on the Cesen Route, Gerlinda took the photo.












Me at C1 on Broad Peak. Quadrat Ali followed me to camp 1 and then we rested and took turns breaking trail in the deep snow to camp 2, while the rest of the summit push members came up behind. K2 is behind me.












Me, a few porters, Jordi C. and Jonathan inside a MI 17 on the way to Latok II. The heli stopped at Dassu to drop off half the porters and Jordi and Jonathan, then Pari II to drop off more porters and gear and then finally 3 hours later dropped me in BC. Then it shuttled everybody and the gear to join me. A long process.

K2 Broad Peak and Latok Photo Albums

The following few blogs will be photo albums from summer 2009. I am currently in The Black Hills of South Dakota climbing in the Needles and also Devil's Tower, WY. The past week has been amazing weather and great fun as I am here on a Marmot Dealer Promotion that Ames Adventure Outfitters - the midwest Marmot and SCARPA reps are running. We are staying in an amazing B & B and eating lots. The lack of feeling in my toes is interesting especially on the somewhat techy climbing in the Needles. Everyone says it will only be another month or so until some of the feeling comes back. Oh well.
Enjoy the photos.












Chogolisa and Masherbrum from the Shoulder of K2 around 5:20 am August 07 2009. I was heading up to the bottleneck and watching the sunrise at the same time. It was so amazing. I will post a 360 degree video in one of the next few blogs.











Camp 4 on the Shoulder of K2 with the Gasherbrum group and Broad Peak behind, this photo was taken at 4:45am August 07.











Another Photo of Broad Peak from above the shoulder just a bit later. Broad Peak stares you in the face when you climb any of the southern aspect routes on K2. It is very beautiful from here, especially early in the morning or just as the sun is setting.











Dani, Dave, Jonathan, Jordi C. and Jordi T. waiting outside our "hotel" in Askoli as we wait for jeeps to come and get us during the fuel shortage in Skardu. This is the day after we walked around 30 KM without food from Latok II south side BC (really the Ogre;s Thumb BC). The mood was very somber.

Saturday, August 29, 2009

Steve House Book Reading in Boulder Sept 03

Time: Thursday, September 3, 2009 7:30 p.m.
Location: Boulder Book Store, 1107 Pearl Street, Boulder, CO 80302
Title of Event: STEVE HOUSE

Steve House will speak about and sign his book, BEYOND THE MOUNTAIN.Steve will also do a book reading at the Patagonia Store on Pearl Street on Friday - call the store for details.



Beyond the Mountain
by House, Steve
Format: Hardcover (Cloth)
Price: $29.95
Published: Patagonia Inc, 2009
Inventory Status: Coming Soon -- Available for Pre-Order Now

Add To Cart

What does it take to be one of the world's best high-altitude mountain climbers? It takes raising funds for an expedition, negotiating some of the world's most dangerous countries, suffering freezing-cold bivouacs and enduring the discomforts of high altitude. It also means learning the hard lessons the mountains teach. This book explores those lessons. Dubbed by Reinhold Messner, "The best high-altitude climber in the world today." Steve House's story chronicles his experiences in the worlds highest mountains, each chapter revealing a different aspect of mountaineering.

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

K2/Broad Peak Double Header: final post from Islamabad

The end of a trip is very melancholy for me, all of the months of work prior to the trip and then the duration of time in base camp and it all seems to pass like a flash when the last member of the trip goes to the airport to fly home, which Dave did early this morning.

This was an amazing season, with strong and fun clients, most of them able to reach the high camps on their chosen mountain or in some cases going above 7000m on both! I managed, in a three week stretch, to climb above the high camp on Broad Peak during the first week and descend directly back to K2 Base Camp, the second week go to the Shoulder on K2 during 4 days of terrible weather and then descend directly back to Base Camp, rest for a few days and do it all over again the following week. The trek out over the Gondogoro La was a massive adventure itself, in a snowstorm and then one night of rest in Skardu saw me involved in a rescue attempt on Latok II for over a week.

Chris and I are the last of the Field Touring teams remaining in Islamambad - last night, with Dave, we joined the Spanish guys from the rescue and the Broad Peak Iranian team for a very fun and amazing dinner at Luna Caprese where we cleaned them out of all the pizza, beer and wine! There was much to celebrate, and we did a good job of it.

Alot of the Field Touring K2/Broad Peak Double header team pushed very hard and should be congratulated for having such success. In a tough season that saw nobody summit either mountain, they did a great job with an absolute majority of clients reaching the high camp on Broad Peak and also Camp 3 on K2 - and two clients reaching the Shoulder on K2. Amazing!

I had alot of fun and I hope that Field Touring lines up another group of great clients for Makalu and Nanga Parbat for me next year!!

Tomorrow I fly back to Colorado to enjoy some fun rock climbing in the sun, perhaps a few road trips to California and Sante Fe as well before flying to Nepal for the Autumn season!

I will post photos and video from the season by the end of the week.

Sunday, August 23, 2009

K2/Broad Peak double header: Islamabad

It is hard to believe but we are back in Islamabad!

After a lot of struggles on ATP's part they managed to get Chris, Dave and finally myself on a flight today. Jordi C. and Simon and the Iranian Broad Peak Expedition that did a great job putting up a new route to join the normal route at 7100m will fly tomorrow, hopefully.

Now we tackle the problem of flying home. Wish us luck!

Friday, August 21, 2009

K2, Broad Peak & Latok II Rescue : Summer 2009 Wrap Up

Sorry That I was unable to update the blog this summer but I felt enough clients were blogging and the Field Touring website was posting updates almost daily that I could updating here.
 
I am in Skardu now trying to figure out how I am getting home as I missed my international flight during the rescue efforts on Latok II. I had to time to jot down some thoughts so here we go....
 
It certainly was a long summer, hard at times but very enjoyable at others - the majority of time in fact! The lowest points were obviously the 2nd day in K2 base camp when Michele Fiat fell to his death while attempting to ski down from below camp 2 with partner Frederick Erickson; the body recovery was difficult emotionally for everybody involved. Christina Castagna's death during our Broad Peak summit push was very hard for me - the image of her sharing warm tea with me at 4:00am at 7400m while all of us were freezing on the way up lingers and I finding it hard to come to terms with her death. The eight days flying around Latok II and attempting to climb up to Oscar Perez was emotionally and physically very fatiguing. It was extremely hard to end the rescue, all of our hearts said keep trying even when our minds said it was too dangerous with the change in weather and the prolonged time. I never met Oscar, nor Alvaro before I flew into Latok BC, but he was one of us, I understood without meeting him what motivated him, what drove him to the mountains. I was compelled to help because I would hope someday when I need help someone will try as hard as we did for me. I wish that circumstances played out better for us with the rescue, my thoughts are with the friends and families of Michele, Christina and Oscar.
 
I am very proud of the work I did on K2, 2 clients joined me to the shoulder while most others from the team managed to climb above C3 (7200m). Fixing rope and managing the movement of 10 people up and down K2 is a stressful and difficult task. I think we did very well as a team!
 
I managed to join and assist the Field Touring Broad Peak summit push, again most of the team members reached C3 (7100m), the high camp, and a few of us pushed above for a summit attempt. Unfortunately, neither K2 or Broad Peak were climbed to the summit this season, if it were possible, Field Touring would have placed members on both summits.
 
I would like to thank a few people. Chris Szymiec, my co-guide from Field Touring this summer (Leader of the Broad Peak Expedition) for his support and great friendship. He didn't get much recognition for his efforts on Latok II, but he put a lot of work into the effort as well. Stu Remmensnyder from the Field Touring USA office for incredible support, not only with daily weather updates and phone calls, but complete support when I said I wanted to join the rescue effort - these types of endeavors are far from single handed, they require huge financial and emotional support. Dave Ohlson from Ursus Films, www.ursusfilms.com, for the continued friendship - this is the third project we have worked on - and for filming from day one of the K2 trip through the Latok II efforts. Pena Guera, they must be the greatest climbing club in the world, I have never seen such an effort to rescue and support climbers ever - how do I become a member? Thanks you so much for doing everything you could during the rescue effort! Jordi C, Jordi T, Simone, Jonathan, and Dani for the effort and support during the rescue, they really embody the spirit of alpinism. Sebastian Alvaro - who gave up so much to stay in Skardu to coordinate the efforts of Pena Guera, the Spanish Embassy, the Pakistani Army's Fifth Air Squadron ("The Fearless Five") and us in Latok II base camp. Without the tireless efforts of Sebas a lot of what we attempted was not possible. The people that have received the least thanks are the HAPs that came with us to Latok II. Thanks boys, you guys worked so hard as usual, sorry for the 10 hour, 23 mile walk from BC down the Biafo to Askoli, without food on the last day of the rescue(at least we ate a whole goat at the end of it!), but we all had fun laughing about it, really it is only another hour!
 
Finally ATP (Adventure Tours Pakistan) and Exweb should be thanked for putting out the call for help and ATP it must be said worked so hard during the rescue efforts to provide everything they could. To all of the people that wrote into the Field Touring website with words of thanks and encouragement and to my personal email, thank you.  
 
Time to try and fly back to Colorado, go rock climbing in the sun, and prepare for the season in Nepal starting October, Pumori and Island Peak!
 
 

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

K2/ Broad Peak Summer 2009: Clients Departing Islamabad

Today was a bit frantic, we managed to get a few clients on the flight to Skardu and tomorrow morning most everybody else will depart by bus to Skardu. Chris, Myself and Dave who is filming will spend one more day in Islamabad as we finalize the permits and then on the 12th we will start the drive.
 
Although today was very frantic it was the typical hurry up and wait situation. However, it did allow for alot of social time, with visits to the hotel from Ashraf Aman of ATP,  Mohammed Ali and Shujat from Karakoram Magic Mountains and then later dinner with Nazir Sabir. Fun to see old friends, hear the latest Ministry of Tourism and Alpine Club gossip and enjoy great mutton BBQ!

Monday, June 08, 2009

K2/Broad Peak Summer 2009: Islamabad

After a long flight it is great to be back in Islamabad, not long since mid September when I last left after the Rupal Face Expedition, luckily I enjoyed my first meal here at my favorite BBQ restaurant. As soon as I arrived at the hotel I was reminded of how friendly and excited people here are to have tourists.
 
Chris - the leader of the Broad Peak section of the Field Touring double header, and I hung out sorting gear, dealing with some logistics and chatting to Phil Crampton in the hotel lobby for a while as other climbers filtered in and out all day. Team members start arriving tonight, so all is on track.
 
 

Friday, June 05, 2009

K2/Broad Peak double header!


Rock climbing in Boulder Canyon 06/04/09 Claudia Lopez Photography.




Last days in town are always frantic before a two and a half month expedition. Yesterday I did a rock photo shoot with Claudia Lopez, today a phone interview with Colorado Public Radio (should air next Tuesday), lots of last minute shopping, became great friends with the FedEx delivery man and said goodbye to many friends. Sad news permeates the air in Boulder over the 'late" return of Jonny and Micah. I depart Boulder with a very heavy heart.

Leaving town so frequently these days I was reminded the past few days of the events I miss and sacrifices made for an alpinist's way of life - it was fun to spend quality time with great friends who have recently fallen in love, about to have a baby and another couple celebrating a one year wedding anniversary this weekend.


With the blackout! (one last high five) crew: Lisa and Ben, Vanessa and Brian.












Please check back for regular updates, if there is a problem with my base camp communications set up, then please check www.fieldtouring.com, www.marmot.com, or www.camp-usa.com for expedition updates. Have a great summer! and wish us luck.

Portrait 06/04/09, Claudia Lopez Photography.












Thanks very much to Marmot, CAMP-USA, SCARPA-USA, Bluewater Ropes, Ames Adventure Outfitters, Claudia Lopez Photography, The House of Flying Tiger, and The Erskine/Halicki Home for Homeless Alpinists for the continued support!

Also to Thermarest, Petzl Headlamps, and Julbo for this expedition.

Please donate to the search for Jonny, Micah and Wade

Please read this very distressing release from adventurefilm.org. Jonny and Micah are good friends of mine from Boulder, they are overdue, please contribute!

June 5, 2009, Boulder, CO—Three Boulder, Colorado climbers—Jonathan Copp (age 35), Micah Dash (age 30), and Wade Johnson (age 24)—are overdue, having missed their flight on June 3 from Chengdu, China.

Please donate to the search fund now!

Visit our blog for up-to-date information on the search

The three traveled to Mount Edgar (6818 meters/22,368 feet) on the Minya Konka massif, Western Sichuan Province, China. They embarked from base camp on May 20, 2009. There hasn’t been any contact with the climbers since.

Copp and Dash are highly experienced alpinists and professional climbers who have many years experience tackling big unclimbed mountains around the world. They received the Mugs Stump Award grant for this expedition from the American Alpine Club in 2008 but had to delay the climb until now, due to political unrest in the region. Johnson (a photographer with Sender Films) was accompanying Dash and Copp to base camp and did not intend to attempt the climb to the summit.

On June 4, 2009, a small party of experienced climbers, organized through the Sichuan Mountaineering Association, arrived in “base camp” and are preparing to continue up to the “advanced base camp” to gather information. Search efforts are being professionally coordinated by friends and colleagues in Boulder and more climbers from China and the US are being deployed to the area. Developing information will be shared as soon as it is available.

“We’re taking all the necessary steps to gather information about the climbers’ whereabouts and haven’t identified any complications beyond their lateness. Although we’re concerned, in alpine climbing it’s not unusual to for climbers to be delayed or out of contact for this long. We are still hopeful,” says Robb Shurr, spokesperson for the search effort.

This search operation will be costly and any financial assistance that can be made will be incredibly helpful in terms of mounting the best search and rescue operation possible. Please donate to the search fund now.

Sunday, May 31, 2009

Colorado Ice Climbing Conditions May 28, 2009: Dark Star, RMNP




Thursday, May 28 Tom and I went up to Meeker to look for ice and luckily found some, in Dark Star and Right Chimney. However the temps were much higher than forecast and the ice was far from bonding to the rock at the crux of Dark Star. A fair amount of post-holing was required to get up there (starting where you go left from the "trail" from the Loft descent - the photo with the Big Horn Sheep that Tom took shows how dry the approach in general is now, above tree line), and it was nice to see a wall neither of us had been to. We were in a full on snowstorm mixed with thunder around 13,200 feet, watch out for storms! Right Corner looks very fun.














Above is Dark Star, below Right Corner is the obvious corner system, left of center (Dark Star is off to the right)












Tom, 70m below, about to follow.












I have abandoned alpine climbing for the spring, with just a few days left til I depart for K2 I feel fit and ready. A few days of rock climbing in the sun would be nice. Final days before trips are very fun, last minute preparations include: resole favorite approach shoes, attend SCARPA sales meeting - a great way for me to see the new product coming for Spring 2009, a meeting at CAMP to pick up some new things, one last photo shoot and then a bunch of sitting and waiting for Fedex and UPS to deliver new clothes from Marmot, rope from Bluewater and goggles from Julbo. Other things might arrive if I am lucky.












Above, Fabrizio Zangrilli, me, at the crux of Dark Star. Below a storm fast approaching as seen from near the top of Meeker

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Breaking news from Explorersweb.com: Lhotse summits - Gerlinde, Ralf, David and Hiro on top

Breaking news: Lhotse summits - Gerlinde, Ralf, David and Hiro on top
image story L/R: David, Gerlinde, Ralf and Hiro in Everest-Lhotse BC, some days before pushing for the summit. Image courtesy of Hiro's and Gerlinde's expedition websites (well, I got it from explorersweb.com).


Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Ralf Dujmovvits, Hirotaka Takeuchi and David Götller summited Lhotse at 11:00am, local time today.

Gerlinde is now level with Edurne Pasaban: both hold the current female record with 12x8000ers summited; Ralf has become a 14x8000er summiteer.











I fisrt met Ralf when we went to Queen Maud Land, Antarctica in 2000. He is one of the great legends of Himalayan climbing and I was very happy to spend the time there with him. In 2007 we met up again at K2 basecamp when he, Gerlinde, David and Daniel were a team, but eventually all of us without Ralf but with the addition of Dodo, and the two Piotrs tried for the single push ascent. The Photo above is of me and Ralf in Gokyo, Nepal, spring 2008, after randomly being at the same lodge. I am very proud of Ralf for finishing off all 14 8000m peaks!

Friday, May 15, 2009

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Compagnoni Dead at 94: Report taken from k2climb.net

Achille Compagnoni dies at age 94
image story Image of Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni, courtesy of Jerberyd.com







(K2Climb.net) Italian K2 pioneer Achille Compagnoni died today in a northern Italy hospital at age 94, media reports.

Sunday, May 10, 2009

Pakistan: real people and very real consequences if the army does not win in Swat

This story from bbc.co.uk. Please see photos, videos and words below from my trip in 2007.

Flight from Swat as curfew lifted

A man injured in fighting between the army and militants, who received initial treatment in Mingora, 9 May 2009
Pakistani civilians have been caught in the crossfire

Thousands of people have fled Pakistan's violence-hit Swat district after the army briefly lifted a curfew.

Local residents trapped by fighting between troops and Taleban militants were given a few hours to leave.

The army is trying to reverse militant advances in the area, in what the prime minister has called a "fight for the survival of the country".

It says it has killed between 180-200 militants in the last 24 hours in Swat and other areas.

Between 50 and 60 militants were killed in Swat on Sunday and about 140 bodies had been found in neighbouring Shangla district, the military said in a statement.

Clashes were also reported in the nearby districts of Dir and Buner.

In Swat, explosive devices planted by the militants in roads and militant mortar fire were causing civilian casualties, the military said.

Due to the intensity of the fighting and the cutting of phone networks, it is difficult to get independent information on the fighting, correspondents say.

'Relying on God'

Early on Sunday, the military lifted a curfew in Swat to allow residents trapped by the fighting to get out.

Residents in the main town of Mingora and the nearby towns of Kambar and Raheemabad began leaving at 0600 (0100 GMT).

Shoaib Hasan
Syed Shoaib Hasan
BBC News, Islamabad

The army has spent the last two days locating and destroying militant camps in the rural regions.

A major ground offensive now appears to be on the horizon to secure the seat of government in Swat.

The Taleban have entrenched themselves in fortified position in and around Mingora. The army is likely to use aircraft and artillery to soften up these targets before sending in ground troops.

But even then, the fighting on the ground is expected to be bloody and long drawn-out.

As dawn broke in Mingora, thousands of civilians were setting out. A local journalist described the event as something out of Doomsday, reports the BBC's Syed Shoaib Hasan in Islamabad.

Men, women, children and the elderly were seen moving along the road that leads out of the region.

The lucky ones were able to get some sort of transport, ranging from a local bus to a donkey cart.

But many plodded down the road on foot carrying what little they could gather, our reporter said.

"We are going out only with our clothes and a few things to eat on the long journey," Rehmat Alam, a 40-year-old medical technician, told the Associated Press news agency.

"We just got out relying on God because there is no one else to help us."

The curfew has now been re-imposed. Analysts say the decision to lift it for most of the day is a sign that the army offensive is likely to intensify in the coming days.







Sitting in Boulder reading about what is going in the Swat valley makes me remember the children of Khane Village - north of Swat Valley by some distance - that I and Girls Education International helped. When you think of all the work done by us, and many others including Greg Mortenson and the Central Asia Institute, I am very saddened to read that a peaceful resolution could not be brokered. What are the answers, the only one I come up with is education. Looking at the photos I am reminded of the innocent people affected by the conflict.







Saturday, May 09, 2009

Colorado Ice Climbing Conditions May 09, 2009: Halletts Chimney, Rocky Mountain National Park

Hallett's Chimney from the approach. Fabrizio Zangrilli Photo.

















Tom approaching 1st belay.

Even though it is flip flop weather in Boulder, Tom and I headed into RMNP to try Hallett's Chimney, on Hallett Peak. Eli had updated Climbing life and had emailed to say he was going up to try. Unable to wait for a response - which arrived a couple of hours after we left boulder, the day after he tried - we found great conditions on the way to the base. Neither of us had done the route, so looking up we thought it looked a bit snowier than photos we had seen on mountain project - and more interesting. Eli had done a great job tunneling out the first pitch, it was spicy though, all I could think was "I hope he made it to the top of the route, I don't want to tunnel for myself".

Fabrizio leading pitch 1.










Video of Fabrizio starting the first pitch, luckily Tom stopped filming and started belaying.

Fabrizio leading Pitch 2. Avoiding the snice and climbing the rock.








Tom and Fabrizio 2nd Belay


Tom and I had a pleasant day (curiously found myself wanting to nibble reeses pieces though), and made it into the bottom of the fourth pitch in just a few hours, even though it seemed like I took forever on pitches 1 and 2 (I climbed the rock to the right of the ice - as it was not solid looking, neither is the rock it turns out, btw). I tried for a bit to tunnel through the 4th pitch but didn't have the guts, shovel nor desire. We re-rigged the raps on the way down, placing pins and adding alot of webbing, getting off from the top of the third pitch should be easy now. Hopefully the videos and photos give an idea of how much snow there is now compared to when it is normally climbed.

Fabrizio Leading Pitch 4. Just before bailing.
















Fabrizio at bottom of 4th pitch.


We will return soon as conditions were "fun", but, if you want an ice route, wait over a month in my estimation. If you want a spicy snice route then email me after you dig out the fourth pitch for us!

Wednesday, May 06, 2009

Midwest Tour with Ames Adventure Outfitters

I was very fortunate to be asked to fly out to Minneapolis to assist Ames Adventure Outfitters with the Midwest Mountaineering Expo and then travel to climbing gyms and shops across Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa and then finally to attend the Erhwon Expo - where I presented two slide shows, in the suburbs of Chicago.














Helping Brian at AAO (www.goaao.com) involved everything from carrying boxes, standing on the floor and helping customers to putting in my two cents as an athlete during clinics to store staff.

Along the way I met some amazing people, had the chance to help a first time climber get kitted out for Rainer and socialize with alot of great people. Thanks to all of the shop staff that made the trip so enjoyable and to Brian for yet another adventure!

*Photo of Steve (a great customer who if you see on Rainer later this summer say "hi"), me and Carolyn (in charge of the climbing department and climbing courses) at the amazingly successful Midwest Mountaineering Expo.

Friday, April 24, 2009

K2 2009 Field Touring Alpine led by Fabrizio Zangrilli

I am very pleased to announce that I will be leading Field Touring Alpine's K2 Expedition this summer. For further information or to join the trek to base camp please email me at Fabrizio.zangrilli@gmail.com


K2

Altitude: 8,611M/28,250ft Location: Karakorum, Pakistan

The K2 component of the expedition is by invitation only, with the application process being open likely only until the month of March. Later applications will be considered on a case by case basis. Thank you.

K2

K2

Dates:

10 June - 14 August, 2009

Price:

USD$11,500
BC services only USD$please call

Note:

Base camp support, helicopter, medical and approach support (with or without permit inclusion) is also available as a separate option for experienced (only) independent teams - please contact us for details.

Inclusions:

All services Islamabad - Islamabad

Positions Open:

15 per trip

FTA and K2

This will be our 6th expedition to Broad Peak and second to K2 and will be led by a highly experienced team of western guides and local HAPs. We have extensive experience in the Karakorum, running more expeditions and treks here than any other operator in the world, and will be engaging the most sought after and qualified Pakistani HAPs. In 2006 we had a number of members reach to near the 8000m mark on K2 and gained significant knowledge of the mountain. We look forward to applying all that we learned to our second effort in 2009.

Why K2/Broad Peak with FTA?

No other operator has the recent experience or history that we do on Broad Peak, and our expeditions have proven her to be a good first time venue for aspiring 8000m alpinists, with reasonable summit rates if the weather is
clement. This program has been priced to give climbers an affordable opportunity to test their skills and endurance on arguably mountaineering’s greatest objective: K2. If you aspire to climb classic Himalayan 8,000ers, in a remote and stunning setting, and with quality back-up and expert leadership, then we invite your application for this once-in-a-lifetime 2009 expedition.

High Altitude Warning

During the ultra high altitude components of our 8000m expeditions (climbing legs above 7000m) the member accepts and fully understands that the level and quality of support and guidance is exponentially reduced the higher the member/team goes. Climbing on the world’s highest peaks is a potentially dangerous undertaking, and while we operate with safety as the highest priority, and have enjoyed a fatality free 14 year history in Pakistan, it must be understood by members that there are risks and dangers that neither leaders or members have any control over. Members need to be aware of these risks and accept their presence as being inherent to the pursuit of the world’s highest summits

The Cesen Route (SSE Spur) on K2

This season our first route preference if the conditions are good will be via the Cesen Route - the lesser climbed SSE spur first claimed by Alpinist Tomo Cesen. The Slovenian was climbing without a permit, so there was no publication about the new line and relatively little information has circulated about it in the years since.

The 4000 meter long Cesen route (also dubbed the ‘Basque route’ or ‘Spanish Route’), follows a spur, just on the right side of the South face, which leads to the shoulder at 7800m, where it joins the Abruzzi Spur route, above camp 3. It has been said that the route is technically slightly more demanding than the Abruzzi, but safer if the conditions are good.

Mark Sheen, a long time FTA member who was with us in 2006 on Broad Peak, last season climbed up the Cesen and then down the Abruzzi as a member of the Norit team. He did in fact on his summit push climb clear from BC to Camp 4 alone and in just 2 days in very good conditions. It is his opinion if the route presents the same or as close to as last season, then it is without a doubt the preferred option for this side of the mountain. He said “While it is marginally steeper in a few places, there was very very little avalanche danger, and just one spot that spat out a few rocks in the midday sun. There was also good camp-sites for up to 8 or so climbers”. He was adamant that if he were to return, it would be via the SSE spur.

A large image gallery on Mark’s ascent is being prepared for members of our 2009 expedition on the FTA site. If conditions don’t favor the Cesen on our arrival, the expedition will have the flexibility to alter routes.

Regardless of the route we will be on, the style of our climb will require that members are able to take an active part in preparing the route above C2 and carrying a share of the tent/stove/fuel loads.

Joining The Expedition & Further Information

If you are interested in joining our expedition we invite you to complete the form below and we will reply to you as soon as possible.

Please note the K2 component of the expedition is by invitation only, with the application process being open likely only until the month of March. Later applications will be considered on a case by case basis. Thank you.

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Erehwon Outdoor Expo/Earth Sports Fest May 2-3, 2009



















A Year of Alpine Traveling 2008/9: Slovenia to K2 and Points in between

Travel with Fabrizio Zangrilli as he shares breathtaking photos and video that encapsulate one year of alpine climbing and guiding Around the world! Adventures include winter alpine climbing in Slovenia, an attempt to climb a new route on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat, a dramatic rescue on Pumori and Colorado ice and Mixed.

Earth Sports Fest

May 2-3 at our Bannockburn Store Parking lot at 2585 Waukegan Road in Bannockburn Green. Top company reps will be there to show new gear, slide show presentations from pro atheletes from The North Face and Marmot, and fun under the giant tent. Free to the public.

MAY 2-3 at our Bannockburn store parking lot at 2585 Waukegan Road in Nannockburn Green. Top company reps will be there to show new gear, slide show presentations from pro athletes from The North Face and Marmot, and fun under the giant tent. Free to the public.

Thursday, April 16, 2009

Ice Photo Shoot with Claudia Lopez: www.claudialopezphotography.com

Please visit www.claudialopezphotography.com to contact Claudia. She can jug ropes, endure long days in the cold, carry gear and make an 11 hour photo shoot very enjoyable. I was very lucky the Marmot PR Department asked her to shoot some photos of me, as all other photographers have had trouble making me look pretty. These are just a couple of snaps she sent over. These photos were shot on two different days this April; in RMNP and Boulder, CO. Big thanks also go out to Tom Halicki for his amazing patience belaying in the cold all day for the ice photos - and for the amazing BBQ ribs after!!

Photos Courtesy Claudia Lopez -- www.claudialopezphotography.com

Monday, April 13, 2009

Colorado Ice Climbing Conditions April 13: Hessie Chimney and Hidden Falls

On Saturday I was in RMNP and it was full on winter conditions, so much snow and cold. Sunday I was getting wet at Hessie Chimney with Jordan. Dave and his partner back off Hessie, while I did battle with the stien pulls on the crack that leads to the mixed thing on the left. Nobody had success, but we all had fun, very atmospheric with snow falling late in the afternoon. Today I was at Hidden Falls, and the ice was fat. Warm, with a bit of a facade to the ice, if you go be careful!

Sherpa Journeys invites you… to a celebration of Himalayan Culture

Hosted by:
Tibet’s Restaurant, Louisville, Colorado
Thursday, May 7, 2009
6:00 to 9:00 pm

Please join us for a celebration of authentic Himalayan food and culture. The evening focuses on the unique, diverse cultures of the high Himalaya and trekking in the Everest Region of Nepal. Special guests include Passang Lamu Sherpa, of the youngest women to climb Mt. Everest and 1st woman to teach climbing in Nepal, Lama Lhoppon Rechung, Tibetan Lama-Monk, and Tenzin Dhongyal, President of Colorado Tibetans Organization.

Evening Schedule:

6:00 Social: an excellent opportunity to mingle with local Sherpas, Nepalese and Tibetans -- including above mentioned special guests

6:30 Himalayan Buffet: Authentic, delicious, healthy Tibetan/Nepali food

7:00 Presentation: Overview of Nepalese, Tibetan and Sherpa Culture

7:30 Raffle: Win a Marmot sleeping bag & other giveaways

7:45 Guest speaker Tenzin Dhongyal, President of Colorado Tibetans Organization discussing “Perspective and Aspirations of Young Generation of Tibetans”

8:00 Lecture on Sherpa Culture by Kathleen Haggerty, the owner and president of Sherpa Journeys and an introduction to Tibetan Buddhism by special guest Lama Lhoppon Rechung of Tibet with artifacts from region.

9:00 You may stay as long as you like to visit and ask questions to our Himalayan friends about their culture and homeland until closing at 10pm.

$15 early registration (Pay on www.SherpaJourneys.com)
Or $20 at door
Includes dinner and soft drinks and chai (see next page for more info)


For more information, please call Kathleen at 303-469-1987




Buffet Dinner Includes: Chicken Curry, Biriyani (stir fried vegetables and rice) Saag (creamed spinach), Naan (flat bread), Tibetan noodles with vegetables, Dal (lentil soup) and kheer (rice pudding), and all you can drink chai (regular or decaf) or soft drinks. Juice and alcoholic beverages not included but may be ordered on a cash basis.

Sherpa Journeys, LLC. is a Colorado-based trekking company specializing in Nepal’s Everest Region. We support sustaining the Sherpa and other local cultures as well as tourism which is the lifeblood of Nepal. We guide with professionalism and responsibility and respect to the environment, the porters and local villagers. Our guides in Nepal have over 30 years of experience guiding in their homeland and are wonderful people to travel with since they love to show westerners the peaks and rivers and their unique way of life. There is something special about being surrounded by the majesty of the highest mountains in the world and being a part of their beautiful culture--even if only for a brief stay. This journey is truly a place to find your own, true spirit. We will unveil our fall trekking and retreat program in Nepal as well.

Tibet’s Restaurant opened October 2008 and is majority owned by Nepalese/Sherpas. The walls are filled with artifacts which are compliments of Tibet’s Gallery in Boulder. These articles are for sale and have price tags on them. Take Highway 36 to McCaslin Blvd and go North about ½ mile past Dillan Road on the left to 321 McCaslin Blvd. www.TibetsRestaurant.com. (303) 665-2557.

Wednesday, April 08, 2009

Tragic News: Piotr Morawski

Newsflash: Piotr Morawski lost on Dhaulagiri

(MountEverest.net/Madrid. Story updated 7:05 am CDT) Polish ace climber Piotr Morawski has perished on Dhaulagiri, local media have just reported...


Very sad news, Piotr was part of the group with Me, Peter Hamor, Dodo Kopold, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Daniel Bartsch, and David Gottler that tried to make a speed ascent of K2 via the Cesen in 2007. I did not know him well, but he was a very nice guy that was very strong in the mountains. My condolences to his family and friends.
Photo of Piotr on the Cesen, video clip of speed attempt - the team reached the shoulder and back down in 36 hours, 2007, by Fabrizio Zangrilli.

Friday, April 03, 2009

Colorado Ice Climbing Conditions April 03: Hessie Chimney, Nederland

Went back out to Hessie Chimney, Eldora, today. Snow was flying from early on and it was very atmospheric all day. Somebody had been up here since Tom and I were last here 4 days ago and today we met two guys scouting the route. Since the heavy snow in the afternoon on wednesday the chimney has filled in a bit and certainly has become a touch easier. The top of the first pitch was very wet and the top pitches (well both finishes) were drippy as well. It snowed most of the day while we were up there and the storm tonight will only make the ice come in fatter. Happy swinging. Email me if you know of any other fun ice/mixed that is in.

Wednesday, April 01, 2009

Colorado Ice Climbing Conditions March 31: Hessie Chimney, Nederland

It took a bit of work to get it done - three trips: to see if ice was in the chimney, then to see if it would hold more than one ascent, and then finally just doing it after figuring it had been cold enough to bond to the walls. There was alot of junk ice that needed clearing and the middle pillar (yesterday) was still not that solid (if this is your first M5 lead then buyer beware, it is not very physical but heady) and since the water had been running so much before the big dump of snow the lower cracks had iced up a bit. There is a fixed blue sling half way up a a few choice pins to clip. All in all a very fun route, the snow we are getting and this weeks forcasted cold temps will only make the route better. Enjoy and probably see you up there in the next couple of weeks.

Thursday, March 26, 2009

Colorado Ice Climbing Conditions March 21 2009: Marthas, RMNP

Last weekend Jesse and I went to Rocky Mountain National Park, we were looking for something a bit more challenging but conditions were quite dry where we went so ended up taking a hike up Marthas. It was my first time and quite fun, although I hear there is usually loads more ice and snow - I imagine after this big dump of snow it will be great! None the less it was still worth doing, and great aerobic training for the upcoming seasons. This week I have been out at another great climb, a bit tougher - will post when I am done there.